Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Les Cocalieres” 2006

($39, Kermit Lynch): This, the domaine’s top-of the-line wine, comes from a separate parcel just outside the well-regarded Mont Peyroux area as opposed to a cellar selection of their ‘best’ wines.  The higher altitude location of the vineyard means a cooler climate in this normally hot part of the south of France and explains the wine’s elegance and polish.  The usual Mediterranean blend–Syrah (40%), Mourvedre (30%) and Grenache–delivers an unusually stylish wine filled with earthy minerality and rich black fruit flavors. It has none of the coarseness that can mar wines from this part of France. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008