Category Archives: USA – California

Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2015

($60):  It should come as no surprise that Grgich Hills makes a spectacular Chardonnay since it was “Mike” Grgich who made the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that stunned the world at the tasting, dubbed, “The Judgement of Paris” in 1976.  Their 2015 Miljenko’s Selection is a gorgeous wine: rich, yet not overdone, with bright lemony acidity.Read more

Duckhorn, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016

($30):  Though Duckhorn Vineyards may be known, rightly so, for their Merlot-based wines, they also make a strikingly good Sauvignon Blanc.  Their 2016 marries fruitiness and pungency without the former being tropical or overblown and without the latter being shrill.  A suave creaminess likely comes from a touch of Semillon in the blend and the judicious use of oak. Read more

Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014

($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South.  As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean.  That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. Read more

Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015

($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation.  As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean.  Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014

($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately.  It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. Read more

MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014

($56): The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers.  Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014

($110): Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines.  Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley.  Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. Read more

Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

($160): In a word, gorgeous.  Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning.  Sure it’s powerful.  But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous.  It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. Read more

Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014

($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers.  Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. Read more

Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014

($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety.  The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. Read more

Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015

($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it.  You’ll likely be very happy.  Take this Pinot Noir, for example.  The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. Read more

Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016

($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star.  Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label.  His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape.  Read more

J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015

($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972.  His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation.  This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Block 10 2015

($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics.  It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay.  The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile:  Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). Read more