Category Archives: USA – California

Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016

($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star.  Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label.  His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape.  Read more

J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015

($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972.  His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation.  This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Block 10 2015

($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics.  It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay.  The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile:  Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). Read more

Merry Edwards Makes Marvelous Pinot Noir

The title of this blog post should come as no surprise to anyone who enjoys Pinot Noir.  Although Edwards was the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek and put their Sauvignon Blanc on the map, her specialty now is Pinot Noir.  She added an excellent Sauvignon Blanc to her offerings several years ago, and is now off to a flyting start with Chardonnay as well, but superb Pinots remain the calling cards for her eponymous winery.Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014

($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component.  A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness.  It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity.  I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014

($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit.  It speaks directly to you.  Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish.  Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines.  For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version.  This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization.  There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Read more

Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011

($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum.  They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor.  The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. Read more

Louis Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different.  This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa.  It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. Read more

Presqu’Ile, San Luis Obispo County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Steiner Creek Vineyard 2014

($48):  Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.”  This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center.  But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight.  Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine.  Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. Read more

Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Dry Fumé Blanc 2014

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. Read more

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” Reserve 2013

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. Read more