($160):
In a word, gorgeous. Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning. Sure it’s powerful. But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous. It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($40):
This wonderfully refined mineraly Cabernet Sauvignon is a pleasure to drink now. I’m certain it will gain complexity — though it has plenty now — and nuance with age, but the winemaking team at Sequoia Grove has polished the tannins so they provide necessary structure without a trace of astringency or roughness. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($26): Presqu’ile takes advantage of their location in the Santa Maria Valley, which is cooled by the influences of the Pacific Ocean, to focus on grapes that show their best in that kind of climate: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($35): As I said in my review of Presqu’ile’s Pinot Noir, you can’t go wrong with their wines. It’s worth repeating. The first sip of this Chardonnay awakens your palate with restrained richness balanced by an enlivening citrus character. With air, more flavors emerge, but it still retains its vibrating soul. … Read more
Patz & Hall, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2014
($44): Dutton Ranch, which consists of 1,100 acres of vineyards spread over the Russian River Valley that are owned or leased by the Dutton family, is a famous name in California wine. Lots of top name California producers buy grapes from Dutton, including Patz & Hall who has hit the mark with this 2014 Chardonnay.… Read more
Patz & Hall, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard 2014
($55): Patz & Hall have long been known for making single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by contracting with top growers for grapes from those vineyards. This one, from the Hudson Vineyard, which is wholly within the Napa Valley portion of Carneros, has lush generosity without being over the top or heavy. … Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($75): Laurel Glen, a true pioneering producer in Sonoma County, currently flies under most everyone’s radar. Under Bettina Sichel’s leadership, that’s slowly changing. Planted in 1968 by Carmen Taylor, Chateau St. Jean purchased grapes for their famed Lauren Glen Cabernet in the 1970s. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard 2014
($75): Cobb’s Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.3 percent) is more floral and opulent compared to their Emmaline Ann bottling at this stage, but still impeccably balanced. Again, the flavors dance across the palate, leaving you wondering how such intensity can be so light. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014
($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers. Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014
($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety. The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it. You’ll likely be very happy. Take this Pinot Noir, for example. The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($72): As usual and as expected, Grgich Hills’ current release Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. I guess the question really is whether this producer can ever do anything wrong. Year after year, the team at Grgich Hills produces stunning, balanced wines from a slew of different varieties of grapes, even Zinfandel. … Read more
Raeburn, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($20): This is a wine that presents a problem for a wine critic. I personally do not care for the in-your-face character, which favors power over elegance. But it is well made and an excellent example of that style of Chardonnay, which I know many people adore. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($40): I had no familiarity with Stewart Cellars until I tasted this Chardonnay. The winery is clearly now on my radar screen. It should be on yours. This is a show-stopping Chardonnay — not because of its power, but because of its stylish elegance. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Founded in only 2000, Stewart Cellars buys grapes from growers they respect. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Stanly Ranch Vineyard in Napa Valley. A judicious use of oak imparts a hint of creaminess that balances the bite of Sauvignon Blanc without eviscerating it.… Read more
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Who knew that Freemark Abbey made excellent Sauvignon Blanc? Of course, they are an iconic producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and some incredibly lush sweet wines. It’s crisp and laser-like, with a snappy bite that is not aggressive. Plenty of body and depth balances its knife-like cutting edginess. … Read more
Shooting Star, Mendocino County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($14): Consumers looking for wines that over deliver for the price should embrace Jed Steele’s Shooting Star label. Steele, known for nuance rather than over the top opulence in his Chardonnay, maintains that style with this one. A hint of pineapple-like tropical fruit flavors are kept in check and balanced by wonderfully racy acidity. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star. Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label. His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Rosé 2016
($28):
As regular WineReviewOnline readers know, I’d usually prefer a chilled light red wine to the vast majorities of innocuous rosé on the market. Here’s an exception — perhaps because it tastes like a light red because of a touch of tannin in finish.… Read more
Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($27): This is a nicely balanced Chardonnay that expresses both a subtle fruitiness and spice. Bright acidity keeps it lively and fresh. The location of the vineyards in a cooler area — the Sonoma Coast — helps account for the refined, not overblown, style. … Read more
Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($32):
Jordan makes just two wines, this Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, which may help explain why they are so consistently excellent. It also helps that they have never strayed from their style — favoring elegance and finesse over shear power. … Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “October Night” 2015
($25): J. Lohr’s October Night Chardonnay is riper compared to the Arroyo Vista bottling — but still not too ripe — with a pronounced floral component, which would allow you to drink a glass before dinner. But, similar to the Arroyo Vista, it, too, has vibrancy in the finish that makes it a good choice at the dinner table.… Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015
($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972. His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation. This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. … Read more
Sweetzer Cellars, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Presqu’ile Vineyard 2014
($40):
For this zesty Chardonnay, Sweetzer purchased grapes from Presqu’ile Vineyard. They aspire — and have achieved — a Chablis styled wine that is both slightly creamy and steely. It’s a hard combination to master, but Sweetzer has. The uplifting finish belies the 14.4 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Block 10 2015
($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics. It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay. The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile: Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). … Read more
Flying Goat Cellars, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Brut 2013
($42): Norm Yost, owner of Flying Goat Cellars, was either crazy or a visionary when he was the first to make a sparkling wine in Sta. Rita Hills in 2005. Now there are more than 30 producers who have followed him, so you can draw your own conclusions. … Read more
Flying Goat Cellars, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard “2A” 2012
($42):
Norman Yost, owner and winemaker of Flying Goat Cellars, acquired detailed knowledge of the vineyards of Santa Barbara County when he worked for Foley Estates, one of the region’s largest producers. Now, making his own wine, he knows from whom to buy grapes. … Read more
Sweetzer Cellars, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($30):
It’s worth keeping your eyes out for wines from this new small producer in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Sweetzer, like many producers in the Sta. Rita Hills, buys grapes from growers as opposed to owning their own vineyards — a set-up that is similar to a small Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2014
($60):
In a word, thrilling. “Mike” Grgich, the king of Chardonnay since it was he who made the Chardonnay that stunned the French and the world in the Judgment of Paris 1976 tasting, has done it again. Rich and explosive, this wine dances on the palate without a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Merry Edwards Makes Marvelous Pinot Noir
The title of this blog post should come as no surprise to anyone who enjoys Pinot Noir. Although Edwards was the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek and put their Sauvignon Blanc on the map, her specialty now is Pinot Noir. She added an excellent Sauvignon Blanc to her
offerings several years ago, and is now off to a flyting start with Chardonnay as well, but superb Pinots remain the calling cards for her eponymous winery.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($48):
Also reflecting its origins, the Russian River Valley bottling delivers more black fruit-like flavors rather than the red fruit of the Sonoma Coast. In contrast to the cooler Sonoma Coast bottling, this one is fleshier with a hint of savory notes.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014
($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component. A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness. It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity. I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne 2014
($63): Merry Edwards’ Georganne bottling has more apparent tannic structure compared to her others from 2014. It’s more brooding at this stage without the same velvety glossiness. That said, there is an appealing earthy, savory aspect that grows on you as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Cuvée August” 2014
($98): The grapes for Merry Edwards’ Cuvée August, named after her first grandchild and her most expensive Pinot Noir, come from the top part of the slope of the Meredith Estate. A dazzling and explosive wine, its concentration almost borders on a “Pinot Syrah” style, but does not cross the line. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014
($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit. It speaks directly to you. Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish. Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2014
($68):
There are fewer savory elements in Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane compared to the Coopersmith and Meredith, but the crystalline purity of the red fruit flavors is astounding. The savory slightly mushroom-y nuances appear with time, with reinforces an important point when drinking (or tasting) her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith 2014
($66):
Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling, similar to the Meredith Estate, delivers refined black fruit flavors enrobed in suave tannins. There’s also an alluring smoky or slightly toasted aspect to it. It’s long and captivating. Part of this wine’s excitement is that it is, indeed, different from the Meredith.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2014
($63):
The pick of an exceptional litter at this stage, Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir says wow! It’s a wonderfully complex mixture of dark fruit and savory flavors. Both glossy and chewy (in a nice way) its contrasts continue to captivate throughout a meal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines. For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version. This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization. There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Rosé Brut NV
($45): A graceful blend of basically Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this salmon-hued rosé is both steely and fruity — and perfectly balanced. It’s remarkably versatile, working deliciously as an after-work, “I’m glad to be home,” aperitif and equally well with simply grilled salmon. … Read more
Carmel Road, Monterey (California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): A delightful, well-priced Pinot Noir is hard to find, so I was especially pleased to sample this one. Light-bodied with intriguing herbal earthy flavors and mild tannins, it’s perfect for current consumption with a veal chop or roast chicken with mushrooms. … Read more
Carmel Road, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2013
($35):
A bigger and riper version of their delightful — and easy to recommend — straight Monterey Pinot Noir, Carmel Road’s Panorama Vineyard bottling focuses more on the sweet fruity aspect of the grape. In the process, they lose delicacy and complexity than Pinot Noir offers. … Read more
Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011
($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum. They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor. The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Cuvée POM” 2013
($48):
J. Lohr makes three Bordeaux-like Cuvées, “PAU,” “St. E” and “POM” inspired by the blend typical for those appellations, Pauillac, St. Estephe and Pomerol. The 2013 Cuvée POM is a successful blend of primarily Merlot (84%) filled out by Malbec (8%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Presqu’ile Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Syrah 2013
($35): The team at Presqu’ile clearly knows what they are doing. First, I tasted — and loved — their Chardonnay, reinforcing the idea that Santa Maria Valley is a good locale for that grape. Then I tasted — and loved — their Sauvignon Blanc, so I figured they were talented white wine producers. … Read more
Louis Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine. Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2013
($54): There’s Merlot…and then there’s the real Merlot. Put this 2013 Duckhorn Merlot in the latter category. This should not be surprising. After all, it was Duckhorn with their Three Palms Merlot that showed the heights that this varietal could achieve in Napa. … Read more
Louis Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different. This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa. It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. … Read more
Presqu’Ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): Presqu’ile seemingly does everything right. Take this Pinot Noir, for example–a lacey combination of red fruit flavors and spice. It’s not overdone in a “Pinot Syrah” style, but rather captures the subtleties of the variety as it dances across the palate.… Read more
Presqu’Ile, San Luis Obispo County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Steiner Creek Vineyard 2014
($48): Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek
Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.” This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. … Read more