($13, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): The 2009 vintage for red Burgundy is fabulous. The wines at the lower end of the prestige ladder, such as Bourgogne Rouge, will be especially attractive because the extra ripeness of the vintage helps even more at this level. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($17, Wilson Daniels): Founded in 2003, Mount Nelson is a joint venture of Lodovico and Piero Antinori. Lodovico always had an interest in Sauvignon Blanc, planting a prime vineyard to it when he established Ornellaia in Bolgheri. Just as in Bolgheri, this Sauvignon Blanc reflects its origins precisely. … Read more
Penfolds, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2005
($60, FWE Imports): Yattarna, Penfolds’ top of the line Chardonnay, has undergone a welcome transition from oaky and oily to this refined, creamy, toasty version. Penfolds attributes it to the source of the fruit, the cool Adelaide Hills, which gives less ripe grapes with more freshness to the wine. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/Mourvèdre “Bin 2” 2009
($15, FWE Imports): It’s incredible that Penfolds, with its vast line-up of wines from its flagship Grange at $400 a bottle to ones like this, rarely gets it wrong. This polished blend marries fruity plumy notes with savory gamy ones. It is supple, yet not soft. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Peumo (Rapel Valley, Chile) Carmenère “Marques de Casa Concha” 2009
($22): 
This wine, like their Xplorador Carménère (also reviewed this week) represents another marvelous example of how Concha y Toro delivers value, even at a higher price. Lush red- and black-fruit flavors intertwine seamlessly with savory elements. Its class is evident by its silky texture, good density and lengthy finish. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
($10, Pasternak Wine Imports): As you’d expect from a wine in the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) portfolio, this Cabernet is refined, not in-your-face or over the top. Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) took over Los Vascos estate in 1988 and the wines have just gotten better and better. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2009
($13): Although robust and fruity like so many Malbecs, this one has more going on that makes it easy to recommend, especially for the price. There are herbal notes and earthy nuances that peek out through the ripe black fruit. Suppleness makes it easy to
drink now.… Read more
Concha y Toro, Central Valley (Chile) Carmenère “Xplorador” 2010
($8, Excelsior): Concha y Toro is a brilliant Chilean producer because they deliver value and quality at every price point, even $8, as in the case of this wine. Plump, it delivers plenty of plum-like ripe fruit, but subtle leafy notes, common to Carménère, prevent it from being a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedricher Gräfenberg 2009
($75, Loosen Brothers): Robert Weil’s name on a label is a guarantee of quality, since the winery is among Germany’s best. Trocken, or bone-dry wines, are not my favorite style of German Riesling, but this one wowed even a skeptic like myself. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Clos de Beauvenir 2009
($75, Pasternak Wine Imports): This is one of the rare white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It comes from a 6.5-acre plot planted primarily to Roussanne and Clairette. Fermented in oak barrels, one-third of which are new, accounts for the noticeable vanilla notes apparent at this stage. … Read more
Prieuré de Montezargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2010
($25, Pasternak Wine Imports): 
Regular WRO Readers know I am not a fan of rosé, but this one is an unusually attractive one. The regulations for the Tavel appellation permit only rosé, which helps explain why rosés from that area are distinctive. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($48, Pasternak Wine Imports): Christian Voeux, La Nerthe’s winemaker, describes 2007 as “a fantastic vintage,” because, as he puts it, “there was rain and wind just at the right time.” The 2007 La Nerthe certainly has all the traits of coming from a great vintage. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée des Cadettes” 2005
($165, Pasternak Wine Imports): Cadettes is French for the second-born daughter. (I can only imagine how the first-born daughter must have felt to be bypassed when La 
Nerthe selected the name for their flagship cuvée.) The 2005, like its predecessors, is a gorgeous wine. … Read more
Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2008
($10, Vineyard Brands): Portugal’s Douro River has long been famous for Port. More and more, dry red table wines are emerging from this area over the last two decades. This one, from Symington Family Estates, one the hallmark Port producers, is a blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, grapes used to make Port. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): 
By focusing on single and unique vineyards, Craggy Range has propelled itself into the top tier of New Zealand producers. Their 2010 Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is their best ever–and that’s saying a lot considering their 2009 was excellent as well. … Read more
Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2008
($16): Despite a relatively short history–the winery was established only in
1979–Hermann J. Wiemer makes some of this country’s best Rieslings. This one’s serious stuff with a hint of floral elements gracefully intertwined with piercing minerality. Perfectly dry, it’s long, balanced and precise. … Read more
Cono Sur, Bio Bio Valley (Chile) Riesling “Vision” 2009
($14, Vineyard Brands): This, Cono Sur’s more upscale–and single vineyard–bottling, is a fabulous value. With flowers and fruit balanced by lip-smacking acidity, it’s bottled springtime. The focus here is on delicate fruit–not earthy minerality–but the impeccable balance and verve carries it beautifully. … Read more
Château de la Ragotiere, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Selection Vieilles Vignes” 2008
($14, Vineyard Brands): 
Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world. True, many can be thin and vapid. But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure. An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities. … Read more
Loosen Brothers, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Dr. L” 2009
($11, Loosen Brothers USA): Dr. Loosen is a great German Riesling producer. This wine is their basic rendition, made from grapes grown at various points along the Mosel River. Wonderfully floral, the touch of sweetness is offset nicely by bracing acidity, which keeps it lively and prevents it from being cloying. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($25, Quintessential): 
Sadly, the wine drinking public often overlooks Crémant d’Alsace. By definition, a Crémant–be it from Alsace or Burgundy–is a sparkling wine that has fewer bubbles than Champagne. As such, Crémants are, as the name implies, creamier. Lorentz, one of the top Alsace producers, uses Pinot Noir exclusively for this Crémant Rosé.… Read more
Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2008
($39, Vineyard Brands): Practically abutting the Atlantic Ocean and feeling its cooling effect, Walker Bay is the capital of Pinot Noir in South Africa. And there’s no doubt that Hamilton Russell Vineyards is one of the area’s leading producers (they also make stunningly good Chardonnay). … Read more
Scott Family Estate, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2008
($39): This lovely California Pinot Noir has plenty of upfront bright fresh fruit–almost candied–flavors. But in addition, it delivers whiff of complementing leafy delicacy. Not a Burgundy, nor should it be, it’s a true reflection of Pinot Noir in Monterey County.… Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Albariño 2011
($18): 
Abacela has focused on Spanish varietals, starting with Tempranillo, since their founding. They first made Albariño about a decade ago, when hardly anyone was familiar with this variety from Spain’s Rias Baixas region. There’s still little Albariño planted in the US and what is planted is rarely turned into wine of this caliber.… Read more
Concha y Toro, Puente Alto (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Marques de Casa Concha” 2008
($18, Excelsior): The Marques de Casa Concha bottling from Concha y Toro, one of Chile’s best producers, is so consistently good that it is one of my “go to” recommendations when people ask for an under $20 red wine.
Their 2008 Cabernet upholds that tradition with an interplay of dark fruit and herbal–almost minty–flavors. … Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Genesis” 2008
($13): Genesis is the label Hogue Cellars, one of Washington’s leading producers, uses for their middle tier wines, in between those labeled simply Hogue Cellars and those labeled Hogue Reserve. A delicate, but not vapid, style of Chardonnay, it delivers fresh clean citrus and green apple notes at a very appealing price.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2008
($48): Under the masterful leadership of Véronique Drouhin, the wines from the Domaine Drouhin Oregon (a.k.a. DDO) has gotten better and better 
since their first vintage, 1988. Part of the credit goes to time. The vines are older and now over 90% of the grapes for the Pinot Noir come from their vineyards. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc “Visión” 2010
($15, Vineyard Brands): With its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, Chile’s Casablanca Valley has become a good site for white wine varieties that prefer cooler weather. This single vineyard, Loma Roja, Sauvignon Blanc is very focused with herbal notes. Not overdone, nor with shrieking acidity, it maintains a nice edginess without being aggressive.… Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Regional Collection 2009
($12, International Cellars): David Strada, the US representative for New Zealand wines, raves about the 2009 vintage. This wine shows why. It has the easy to recognize zesty grapefruit-like tang of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region. But it also has a weight and intensity that fills it out. … Read more
Elix, Priorat (Catalunya, Spain) 2006
($40, Palmina): 
Priorat, a rugged, desolate and hot region is one of Spain’s top wine producing areas. With alcohol levels easily reaching 15%, the wines are typically robust and powerful. The best, like this one, convey an almost paradoxical elegance. An explosion of exotic flavors–licorice and a tar-like minerality–burst force, but don’t overwhelm. … Read more
Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Carmenère Reserve “Santa Digna” 2009
($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Torres, arguably the most famous name in Spanish wine, has expanded into Chile. Judging by this Carménère, they will do very well there. Carménère, a grape native to Bordeaux, but virtually abandoned there, has found a home in Chile. … Read more
Backsberg, Paarl (South Africa) Merlot 2008
($14, Frederick Wildman): Merlot has taken its fair share of bashing, often deserved. But there are plenty of distinctive ones, such as this wine, that are easy to recommend because they deliver an appealing combination of ripe fruit notes and leafy, savory elements. … Read more
Torres, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza “Celeste” 2007
($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Torres, Spain’s most renown producer, expanded their holdings in
2003 to include high altitude (about 3,000 feet elevation) vineyards in Ribera del Duero from which they make this wine. Keeping with their style, it is beautifully balanced and polished with deep red fruit flavors and minerality. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2007
($13, Vineyard Brands): This mid-weight red shows the value of Rioja. It strikes a good balance between ripe fruitiness, the barest hint of vanilla notes from aging in oak barrels and savory notes. Immediately enjoyable because of smooth tannins, it’s a good choice for a slowly simmered stew this winter.… Read more
Patient Cottat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008
($23, Vineyard Brands): Patient Cottat is one of the labels that Fournier Père & Fils, an excellent Loire producers based in Verdigny, uses for wines from his own vineyards. It’s a lovely Sancerre with the depth and length you’d expect from 30+ year-old vines planted on limestone soil. … Read more
Montecillo, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 2001
($25, Underdog Wine Merchants): Technically, a Gran Reserva from Rioja must spend a minimum of two 
years in oak and then must be held at the winery until the sixth year after the vintage. In reality, the winemaker must believe the wine has the requisite quality and stuffing to gain complexity with barrel and bottle aging. … Read more
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($41, Premium Wine Company): 
Les Monts Damnes (literally, damned mountains), so named because of the steepness of the slope, is one of the best sites in Sancerre and would be categorized as Grand Cru if that system existed in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Duret, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($13, Fruit of the Vine): Quincy is a tiny (400-acre) appellation west of Sancerre where regulations mandate Sauvignon Blanc for white wines just as in Sancerre. This wine speaks more of the grape with zesty citrus flavors than underlying minerality, but it is easy to recommend with raw or simply prepared seafood, especially at this bargain price.… Read more
Philippe Rambeau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Les Lumeaux” 2009
($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps): Despite the “fume” in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé. Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar. … Read more
Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2010
($9, Vineyard Brands): Since it’s never too early to think about warmer weather, put this one
on your list for summertime sipping. South Africa has more Chenin Blanc planted than any other country in the world. Producers there make a wonderful array of styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet. … Read more
CUNE, Rioja (Spain) “Monopole” Bianco 2008
($13, Pasternak Wine Imports): The two unusual things about this wine is the color–it’s a white Rioja–and the name. The official name is C.V.N.E. or Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (The Northern Spanish Wine Company), but everyone refers to it simply as Cune. … Read more
Bodegas Bilbainas, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Zaco” 2006
($12, Aveniu Brands): The absence of oak aging means the bright and juicy cherry-like flavors of this Tempranillo (100%) are readily apparent. Lively and clean, spice nuances balance the fruit in this uncomplicated wine. Tannins are barely noticeable. If it were Italian, I’d call it a “pizza wine.” … Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008
($20, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, a family run firm established in picturesque town of Riquewihr in 1639, is one of Alsace’s best producers. This, their “basic” Riesling, is made from grapes grown in the surrounding area, which is a part of Alsace well known for the varietal. … Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2007
($55, Frederick Wildman): 
Hugel, along with Trimbach and Beyer, other stellar Alsace producers, vigorously oppose the Grand Cru categorization of Alsace vineyards despite their ownership in many vineyards that received Grand Cru status. They believe the classification system is flawed because it includes inferior sites that dilute quality. … Read more
Anton Bauer, Wagram (Austria) Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 2009
($17, Select Wines): For those unfamiliar with Gruner Veltliner, Austria’s most widely planted grape, this would be an excellent place to start because Bauer is a top-notch producer and the Rosenberg vineyard is a prime spot. Faintly, but distinctly, aromatic, this Gruner Veltliner is dry with a firm texture combined with subtle citrus notes in the finish. … Read more
Benoit Gautier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($16, Martin Scott): A slighter softer expression of Vouvray, there’s nonetheless enough acidity to keep the wine clean and fresh. Delicate and floral when tasted alone, it blossomed when consumed with savory sausages. The barest hint of sweetness became a perfect foil for the spice of the meat. … Read more
Les Clissages d’Or, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): The Clissages d’Or label is a part of the estate of Guy Saget, the very talented Loire producer, and represents their best vats of Muscadet. And it is very good Muscadet, indeed. It delivers the bracing vibrant–almost tooth rattling–acidity of Muscadet, but with an enticing chalky element and depth. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvée R” 2008
($18, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Trimbach is one of the greatest producers in Alsace. Their range of Riesling–from their basic one that’s a blend from many vineyards to their sensational single vineyard Clos Ste Hune–is superb. The Cuvee R represents the best batches from their basic bottling and lies between it and their one labeled Frederic Emile, which comes their grand cru vineyards adjacent to the winery. … Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2009
($13, Vine Connections): Those who remember Argentine Chardonnay as heavy and clumsy
must try this bright and breezy one. A hint of toastiness in the nose and a similarly restrained creaminess on the palate adds complexity to this linear racy wine. … Read more
Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Verdemar” 2009
($11, Underdog Wine Merchants): Montecillo makes wonderful Rioja. It turns out they do an admirable job with Albariño as well. The Verdemar has a certain Muscadet-like character to it with an appealing chalky minerality and bright acidity. It would be an excellent choice for simply broiled fish.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($17, Franciscan Estates): A suave texture fills out the middle and balances the quintessential zesty–almost biting–character of this Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not just an uplifting summertime wine, try it with oysters now. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011… Read more