($18, Old Bridge Cellars): This seamless blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harnesses the best of both grapes. It has the bright herbal aspect of Sauvignon Blanc softened just a bit by the lanolin texture of Semillon. The Semillon rounds out the wine without obliterating the invigorating pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Sauvion, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2010
($15, W J Deutsch): Sur lie means the wine has been kept on the lees (dead yeast), which act as an anti-oxidant keeping the wine fresh and lively, until bottling. That may explain why the 2010 Château du Cléray is even snappier at this stage than the 2009 (previously reviewed). … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2010
($23): 
Cadaretta has adopted the Western Australia custom of using SBS on the label to indicate a Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend. The Semillon (25%) in Cadaretta’s blend puts a glossy coating on the grassy herbal pungency of Sauvignon Blanc and adds body. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($35, Moët Hennessey USA): 
Cloudy Bay thrust New Zealand onto the world’s wine map with their Sauvignon Blanc two decades ago. They’ve added Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to their portfolio and while neither will replace their Sauvignon Blanc as their standard bearer, this Pinot Noir shows that the Marlborough region is well suited for that varietal. … Read more
Plantagenet, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc ‘Omrah’ 2009
($15, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Founded in 1974, Plantagenet was the first winery in the Great Southern Region of Western Australia. They are well known for their stunning Rieslings, which develop beautifully with bottle age and are among Australia’s best. Less well-known is their second label, Omrah, which represents great value. … Read more
Domaine de la Perrière, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($21, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, one of the Loire’s best producers, has controlled this domaine for the past 15 years. The 2009, a great vintage in the Loire, is one of his best. With so much diluted Sancerre on the market, it’s a pleasure to find this one, full of chalky minerality. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (South Australia) ‘Layers’ 2010
($17, Hess Collection): An unconventional blend of Semillon (37%), Muscat (20%), 
Gewürztraminer (20%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Chardonnay suggests that this wine was an afterthought—a way to use leftovers—not planned. Whatever the motivation, it’s an engaging blend that works. Flowery aromatics reinforce its lightness (11.5% stated alcohol) while a lovely lanolin-like texture, undoubtedly from the Semillon, contributes body. … Read more
Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau des Capitans 2010
($19, WJ Deutsch): Duboeuf, often dubbed the King of Beaujolais because he controls so much of the production of that region, was the first négociant to credit the individual grower by putting growers’ names, in addition to his own, on labels. … Read more
Two Princes, Nahe (Germany) Riesling 2010
($14, Valckenberg): Some German producers, responding to the criticism that their labels are too detailed and confusing, have simplified them. This label just tells us that it’s a Riesling from somewhere in the Nahe, a less well-known region that geographically lies just west of the Rheinhessen. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2009
($18): Chateau Ste. Michelle consistently turns out wines that deliver far more than the prices suggests. This harmonious wine marries red and black fruit flavors with intriguing subtle herbal, almost minty, notes. Not overdone, it speaks to you instead of screaming at you. … Read more
Schloss Saarstein, Saar (Germany) Riesling Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Kabinett 2010
($26, Valckenberg): The vineyard, Schloss Saarstein, is located in the village of Serrig in the Saar Valley and is owned exclusively (a monopole) by Schloss Saarstein. Hence, there is confusion since the producer and the vineyard have the same name. However, let there be no confusion about the quality of the wine. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (Californiac) Cabernet Sauvignon “White Stone Vineyard” 2008
($40): The White Stone Vineyard is the name to give to a 10-acre select hillside portion of their 150-acre estate vineyard in San Martin. Bold, perhaps in part due to a little Malbec (5%) in the blend, this Cabernet focuses on power, but retains elegance.… Read more
Los Vascos, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($11, Pasternak Wine Imports): Los Vascos knows how to deliver. Their 2008 Cabernet (previously reviewed) delivers more than the price suggests. And this Sauvignon Blanc is in the same category. It has the distinctive pungency and brightness of Sauvignon Blanc without off putting overly grassy notes.… Read more
Goldwater, Wairau Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($15, Pasternak Wine Imports): This wine has the expected electrifying zing we’ve come to expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. But it also delivers a flinty, almost smoky, quality that makes it stand apart. It has an expansive mouth-filling quality often lacking in wines at this price.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Vineyard 2010
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle touts their single vineyard wines, such as this one, as distinctive wines from a single site. That’s surely the case with this Sauvignon Blanc. Layers of citrus notes, herbal nuances and green apple vivacity make this an unusually complex Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Graff Collection, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich 2010
($17): The wine merchant and importer, Valckenberg acquired the Carl Graff estate in 1969 and sold off the vineyards, but kept the rights to the name, eventually dropping the Carl. Hence, this is a négociant wine and shows just how good they can be when the selection is rigorous. … Read more
Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Abtsberg 2010
($37): The Maximin Grünhaus estate, one of Germany’s finest, has been owned exclusively by the von Schubert family since 1882. As a monopole, the usual German style of nomenclature–village followed by vineyard name–is not required. It’s composed of two reasonably sized (35-45 acres) south facing vineyards, Abtsberg and Herrenberg and one tiny (2.5-acre) one, Bruderberg, on the slopes of the Ruwer River just before it joins the Mosel. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Johannisberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Kabinett ‘V’ 2010
($24, Valckenberg): Johannishof is one of the great producers in the Rheingau, where they own about 50 acres in prized vineyards, included Vogelsang. For unknown reasons they opt to call this wine V instead of putting the vineyard name on the label. … Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) JoLi Estate Vineyard ‘Meritage Red Wine’ 2007
($50): Named after their grandchildren, Joseph and Lila, this is a gorgeous Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (59%), Merlot (27%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Malbec. Though each varietal adds character, it’s a seamless blend with no one component dominating. Juicy and succulent fruit flavors are interwoven with earthy mineral notes. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
($52): 
Jordan has been known for finesse-filled wines since their first release, the 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, in 1980. Winemaker Rob Davis and owners Tom and Sally Jordan have never veered from that style despite the movement toward riper, more massive Cabernet by most of the California wine industry. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling 2010
($9): Chateau Ste. Michelle continues its streak of making terrific, well-priced Riesling. The 2010 has the classic Riesling nose of flowers and minerals that follows through onto the palate. Limey acidity balances a delicate fruitiness and gives this dry Riesling a peppy signature. … Read more
Von Kesselstatt, Piesport (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Goldtropfschen 2010
($25, Valckenberg): It’s hard to miss with the wines from Von Kesselstatt, one of the leading producers in the Mosel. What’s amazing is how undervalued these wines remain. Goldtropfschen is one of, if not the most, acclaimed vineyards in Piesport, probably the Mosel’s most famous town. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot ‘Indian Wells’ 2009
($18): This Merlot conveys herbal, leafy nuances that offset the succulent black fruit flavors and gives the wine a more delicate and intriguing aspect. Polished and long, it’s far less of an overpowering fruit bomb than its 14.5 percent alcohol would suggest. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “St. Henri 2006
($65, FWE Imports): One of the reasons Penfolds is a great producer is that it turns out a wide spectrum of distinctive wines even within a single varietal. The St. Henri Shiraz is, as they call it, a counterpoint to Grange.… Read more
Sauvion, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château de Cléray 2009
($15, WJ Deutsch): Every time I taste a Muscadet of this quality I wonder why the category is under-appreciated and the wines so inexpensive. Sure, there are 
underachievers in Muscadet making vapid wine, but probably no more than in most regions.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Grand Cru Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2009
($150): The wines from Échézeaux, a large, 90-acre grand cru, are highly variable (like those from neighboring Clos de Vougeot). Although the producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, it’s doubly important when choosing Échézeaux. Jadot makes a great one, and it’s always one of their best wines.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2009
($45, Kobrand): Jadot owns almost a third of this premier cru vineyard that lies in the southern part of Beaune, bordering Pommard. Though the 2009 red Burgundies are sensational across appellations, the wines from Beaune are especially engaging. It’s very floral and mineraly with sweet ripe dark fruit, plush tannins and great length.… Read more
Penfolds, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008
($23, FWE Imports): Very different from a Barossa Shiraz, Penfolds’s Bin 128 Shiraz shows
the importance of location within Australia, a country with scores of different climates. Similar to their Barossa Shiraz, this one from Coonawarra comes exclusively from their grapes. … Read more
Domaine Fournier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Les Belles Vignes 2009
($25, David Milligan Selections): Sancerre is enormously popular, not only in Paris bistros, but around the world. And often with popularity comes dilution of quality, which, in the case of Sancerre, has led to many vapid wines that have zestiness but little else.… Read more
Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Premier Cru de Château” 2009
($15, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines. This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity. Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. … Read more
Domaine Fournier, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($20, David Milligan Selections): Ménétou-Salon is a small appellation just to the west of Sancerre that also requires use of Sauvignon Blanc for its white wines, which typically are a little softer and gentler than those of its more famous neighbor. … Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007
($37, Vintus): Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard
is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines–Savennières–and glorious sweet ones–Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon. The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2009
($25, Cynthia Hurley): White wine from Chinon is rare because the soil and climate is far more conducive to Cabernet Franc than to Chenin Blanc. But it’s worth 
the search for this wine, not because of its rarity, but because of its unique character. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Baronnie Madeleine” 2008
($25, Cynthia Hurley): This light to mid-weight red, made entirely from Cabernet Franc, is a good choice when you need a red wine this summer. Named after the winemaker’s grandmother, it combines delicate leafy undertones, fresh cherry-like flavors and minerality. Silky tannins allow immediate enjoyment. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Emery” 2008
($45): 
WillaKenzie bottles several vineyard designated Pinot Noir each year. For some wineries, vineyard designation is simply a marketing tool. Not for WillaKenzie. Their single vineyard wines are distinctive and unique. Slightly more power and concentration sets WillaKenzie’s Emery Vineyard bottling apart from their Aliette bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2010
($16, Banfi Vintners): Riesling “Grand Barossa” 2010 ($16, Banfi Vintners): I’ve had so many fine Rieslings from Australia that I should not be surprised by another one. But this one surprised me, not because it was so good, but because of the origin of the grapes. … Read more
Emiliana, Rapel Valley (Chile) Syrah “Natura” 2009
($11, Banfi Vintners): Emiliana is dedicated to making wines from organically grown grapes (Natura and Novas labels) and biodynamic farming principles (Gê and Coyam labels). This Syrah highlights the plumy flavors the wine can deliver rather than the peppery notes characteristic of wines from cooler climes, such as the Northern Rhone. … Read more
Santa Ema, Maipo Valley (Chile) Merlot Reserve 2008
($10, TGIC Importers): Here’s a toasty, plush, big Merlot more appropriate to accompany a grilled steak than as an aperitif. Although there are subtle leafy notes, the focus is on juicy black fruit-like flavors and a dollop of sweet oak. At ten bucks, it’s a fine choice for drinking this summer with burgers or grilled skirt steak.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2009
($95, Louis Latour USA): Corton is the one Grand Cru for red wine in the Côte de Beaune. A variety of vineyard names, such as Grèves or Clos du Roi, can be affixed after the name Corton. Grancey, however, is not one of those names. … Read more
Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Block 5” 2008
($72, Wilson Daniels): Central Otago, in the southern part of New Zealand’s South Island, is a name to remember for high quality complex Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noirs from here, while stylistically distinct from Burgundy, still have to potential to rival their French counterparts. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Aliette” 2008
($48): WillaKenzie Estate, one of Oregon’s leading Pinot Noir producers, has several single vineyard bottlings, all of which are distinct in character. The Aliette delivers far more complexity without additional weight compared to their very good multi-vineyard blend, labeled Pierre Léon. … Read more
Domaine de la Pepière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($13, Louis Dressner): Muscadet is one of those regions whose good wines are terribly under-priced for the enjoyment they deliver. The character-filled wines, like this one from the subregion of Sèvre-et-Maine, suffer from the reputation of many that are vapid and hollow. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) “Grand Classique” 2008
($20, The Hess Collection): 
A plush Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Malbec (16%), Merlot (14%), Petit Verdot (13%) and Cabernet Franc, Glen Carlou’s Grand Classique is rich without being overdone. Bright cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Smoky, herbal nuances complement the ripe flavors. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009
($83, Louis Latour USA): This is a great wine. But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer. Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Coddington” 2008
($45, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays produced in New Zealand, so it would not be credible for me to claim that Kumeu River’s are the best. But having tasted them regularly over the years, they must be on a short list for that accolade. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2007
($45, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River is located on New Zealand’s North Island well north (which means warmer in the Southern Hemisphere) of Marlborough or Central Otago, two of the countries more well-known sites for top-notch wine on the South Island. Nonetheless, its proximity to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean (no more than 15 miles) means it’s a cool site. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Maté’s Vineyard” 2008
($48, Wilson Daniels): Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, the flagship Chardonnay of the estate, is
named for Maté Brajkovich, who founded the winery along with his parents in 1944. In 1990, Maté replanted the original vineyard he and his parents purchased with Chardonnay. … Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Noble Barren” 2008
($50, Banfi Vintners): This is Château Tanunda’s top-of-the-line Shiraz. Although slightly “bigger” than their regular bottling, its grandeur and appeal comes from more complexity, not more power or extract. It’s an exciting Barossa Shiraz because along with the expected intensity comes layers of spice and even a subtle touch of chocolaty notes. … Read more
Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontés 2010
($11, Banfi Vintners): Aromatic and airy, Trivento’s Torrontés is bottled springtime. Adequate acidity keeps it fresh. Have a glass as an aperitif and then take the bottle to the table to match with spicy dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011… Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Grand Barossa” 2008
($18, Banfi Vintners): This classic Barossa Shiraz shows why the region is justifiably well-known for the variety. Big and brawny, but not overdone or flamboyant, it packs plenty of power, spice and even some chocolaty elements. It’s refreshing to taste a Shiraz that has complexity and not just alcohol and extract. … Read more