($15, WJ Deutsch): Every time I taste a Muscadet of this quality I wonder why the category is under-appreciated and the wines so inexpensive. Sure, there are
underachievers in Muscadet making vapid wine, but probably no more than in most regions. Sauvion, one of the Loire’s leading négociants, is based in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine region. This wine, from their home vineyards at the Château de Cléray, is their best Muscadet (and it’s still only $15). Although it has the expected penetrating acidity of Muscadet, it has unexpected depth. Light and refreshing, it delivers hints of green apples and lemony notes. Try this snappy wine with shellfish, such as steamed clams or sautéed scallops. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011