Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Abtsberg 2010

($37):  The Maximin Grünhaus estate, one of Germany’s finest, has been owned exclusively by the von Schubert family since 1882.  As a monopole, the usual German style of nomenclature–village followed by vineyard name–is not required.  It’s composed of two reasonably sized (35-45 acres) south facing vineyards, Abtsberg and Herrenberg and one tiny (2.5-acre) one, Bruderberg, on the slopes of the Ruwer River just before it joins the Mosel.  The 2010 Abtsberg Spatlese is simply stunning with richness bordering on Auslese level and riveting acidity than prolongs the peach-like nuances.  A delicate earthy minerality underscores the uniqueness of the site. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011