($30): Randall Grahm, founder and winemaker at Bonny Doon, is known for his humorous labels as well as his talented winemaking. His Cigare Volant (flying cigar or flying saucer) refers to an ordinance promulgated by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a town in the southern Rhone Valley just north of Avignon, that prohibited the landing of flying saucers within the town limits.  (And the French say we are crazy). The wine, Graham’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, is a lively and fanciful as the label. In a departure from previous blends, the 2003 is top heavy with Mourvèdre and Syrah (about two-thirds), which explains its density and power. It has a spicy — almost briary — edge and a concentration of red fruit flavors without being over the top. A subtle pepperiness and uplifting acidity would carry it through a meal of short ribs. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007