Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004

($12, Palm Bay): Location, location, location.  This wine stands above Santa Rita’s Cabernet ‘120’ (reviewed above) because of the origin of the grapes.  Chile’s Maipo Valley, just south of Santiago, has long been known as a prime place for Cabernet.  Wines from this area often have an herbal, even minty, quality which can be quite appealing when it’s subtle, but is off-putting when it’s not.  Santa Rita’s is alluringly subtle and has the effect of amplifying the cassis-like flavors.  Plush, without being soft, its supporting tannins are present making it better suited at–rather than before–the dinner table. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007