($45, Eric Solomon Selections): 
With Alvaro Palacios in Priorat and Rioja, Ricardo Palacios in Bierzo, and now with Rafael in Valdeorras, a DO in northwestern Spain, the Palacios family is one of the locomotives that continues to pull Spanish wine onto the world’s stage. … Read more
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Michael Gay et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Greves 2006
($53, Martine’s Wines): Although the 2006 red Burgundies were far less consistent than the more acclaimed 2005s, many producers delivered excellent wines. Michel Gay’s Beaune Grèves is one of them. Grèves is on most producers’ short list of the best vineyard sites in Beaune. … Read more
Brunello di Montalcino 2.0
In preparation for my attendance at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual tasting of the newly released 2005 Brunello di Montalcino, held in that Tuscan hilltop town, I did some homework by opening and drinking some from my cellar—a 2001 La Gerla, a 1999 Fulgini, a 1998 Banfi Poggio alle Mura, and a 1997 Banfi Poggio all’Oro.… Read more
Scott Family Estate, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir ‘Dijon Clone’ 2007
($39): There are a plethora of Pinot Noir clones, each of which produces grapes with slightly different characteristics. Although the Dijon clone originated in Burgundy, this wine emphasizes the ripe, fruit-driven style of Pinot Noir rather than the savory component often found there. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2006
($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This wine remains my benchmark for red Cotes du Rhone. I am
continually impressed by Guigal’s ability to make 250,000 cases of this high-quality wine year in and year out. Of course, he is a great producer. … Read more
Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2008
($16): As this Chardonnay demonstrates, Washington’s Columbia Valley is a fabulous source of wine. It delivers subtle creaminess and good intensity without hitting you over the head. With good vivacity, it’s suave and balanced–and a very good value. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2010… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard 2007
($26): Of all their excellent Chardonnays, this one is Ste. Michelle’s most powerful one. That said, it still shows restraint and balance. Its exotic nose of toasty nuances leads into a rich and creamy mid-weight wine. A long stylish finish shows just how classy it is.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2006
($22, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, perhaps the Rhône’s best producer overall, made his reputation with his stellar wines from Côte Rôtie. But since he purchased two estates that gave him vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage, the less steeply sloped land adjacent to Hermitage, he has been making wonderful wines from there as well. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours” 2006
($16, Frederick Wildman): Hugel is one of the undisputed leaders in Alsace so it’s not surprising that their Pinot Blanc–a wine that can be innocuous–is so full of character. Delicate notes of white flowers grab your attention, but it’s the bracing character of this unoaked wine that keeps it. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($24): This classic California Cabernet is easy to recommend and explains why that category remains so popular. Herbal elements balance the fresh ripe fruit flavors. Polished tannins and good acidity lend support without being intrusive. It’s a lovely choice for grilled or sautéed beef.… Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($10, Vineyard Brands): Porcupine Ridge is one of four labels produced by Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s finest producers. (As a point of trivia, Boekenhoutskloof means ravine of the boekenhout [pronounced book-n-howed], a tree unique to the area, the wood of which is prized for furniture). … Read more
Realce, Manchuela (Spain) Bobal Rosé 2009
($8, Wine Associates, Inc.): The Bobal grape is indigenous to Manchuela, a newly created DO in southeastern Spain that was formerly part of La Mancha. Both the grape and the region had been known for producing bulk wine, but recently producers having been aiming higher. … Read more
Realce, Manchuela (Spain) Bobal Crianza 2003
($10, Wine Associates, Inc.): The Bobal grape is capable of producing fine wine if the vines natural proclivity for high yield is kept in check. The winemaking team must have done that with this wine. It’s pleasantly rustic with a nicely balanced array of black fruit, spice and herbal notes. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Icon” 2009
($19, International Cellars): This wine is a no-brainer. Nobilo is one of Marlborough’s leading producers. Their best wines are bottled under the Icon label. And 2009 is a great year for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, according to David Strada, the US representative of New Zealand wine. … Read more
Guigal, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): There are many wines that claim to be ready to drink now, but will age beautifully. Few deliver on that promise. This is one of them. It has all of the lovely peppery components that young Syrah delivers when grown in cooler climate, such as the Côte-Rôtie. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($16, Icon Estates): Kim Crawford is one of Marlborough’s best and most reliable producers of Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2009, an excellent vintage according to David Strada, the US representative of New Zealand Wine, maintains that track record. It has unusually good concentration and complexity to accompany the electrifying edginess we’ve come to expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Nautilus, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($28, Negociants, USA): 
This wine demonstrates that Central Otago and Martinborough are not the only districts in New Zealand capable of producing distinctive Pinot Noir. The Marlborough region, long renown for its riveting Sauvignon Blanc, is also a good locale for Pinot Noir. … Read more
Manchuela, or Mushrooms After A Rain
One of the great things about wine is how new areas appear or spring up seemingly overnight–almost like mushrooms after a rain–and wind up producing world class wines. It happens all over the world. The Marlborough region in New Zealand was a cow pasture, but now is producing great Sauvignon Blanc and showing strong potential for Pinot Noir as well. … Read more
Truro Vineyards, Southeastern New England (United States) Chardonnay “Unoaked” 2008
($16): Chardonnay grown on the East Coast rarely achieves the ripeness of its West Coast counterpart, and hence, the wines are sleeker and more vibrant. This racy Chardonnay from Truro, on Cape Cod and a site better known for its beaches than its wine, fits that mold. … Read more
Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Wallula Vineyard “Biodynamic Cuvée” 2007
($20): Areas within Washington State, with cooler climate, are emerging as excellent sites in this country for Riesling. This beautifully balanced one exemplifies why Riesling is gaining in popularity. A subtle and intriguing interplay of minerality, fruitiness–hints of pear and grapefruit–and just a bare hint of sweetness set off by vibrant acidity makes it an ideal choice as an aperitif, with spicy fare or Asian food. … Read more
The Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope Reserve 2006
($30): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%) and Merlot, this classy wine has silky tannins that make it a joy to drink now. Tobacco and spice notes accompany its ample fruit flavors and prevent it from coming across as a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Perrin & Fils, Vinsorbes (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($22, Vineyard Brands): Like the Perrin Rasteau (also reviewed this week), the Vinsorbes, from another named village in the southern Rhône, is a marvelous example of what the much touted 2007 vintage delivered in the Rhone Valley. The blend is flipped–Syrah, with 65%, dominates the Grenache–but the results no less enjoyable. … Read more
Perrin & Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andeol” 2007
($25, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau, one of the villages in the southern Rhône Valley, has the
potential to produce distinctive wines and hence, the village name appears on the label. With a blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah, the Perrins have fulfilled that potential with this wine. … Read more
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($16, Wilson Daniels): 
This excellent example of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc shows why the category has become so popular. Aside from the quintessential zing and pungency that seem essentially natural to the grape variety, this has depth and nuances of minerality. A long and cleansing finish makes it ideal for the dinner table.… Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2008
($18): Consumers often forget that Oregon producers exceptional Pinot Gris. This wine should remind them. Full and rich, it has hints of melons and nuances of apricots and other stone fruits. Enlivening acidity refreshes the palate and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Shiraz 2007
($20, Vineyard Brands): Neil Ellis produces consistently high quality wines at all price levels. This, an upper tier Shiraz, is well worth it not because it is more powerful, but because it’s more complex. Not over-the-top, it’s a lovely balance of layers of spice and black fruit. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2008
($18): Pinot Blanc can be vapid and boring. Not this one. Fuller than most,
this lovely example has a stone fruit kind of richness balanced and invigorated by lively acidity in the finish. It’s an excellent choice as an aperitif that could easily be carried to the table to match with grilled fish, a seafood stew or even roast chicken.… Read more
California Chardonnay: A Paradigm Shift
It may be odd that I, a confirmed Francophile with a special affection for Burgundy, should be extolling the virtues of California Chardonnay.
But it’s true. Don’t think I’m comparing California–or any New World Chardonnay–with Burgundy. I’m not. Burgundians insist their wines are vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the vineyard–a.k.a. … Read more
Doña Paula Estate, Cafayate Valley (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2009
($12, Vineyard Brands): This wine is a little deceptive, in a nice way. With the floral aroma reminiscent of Muscat, it temporarily tricks you into thinking it will be sweet. But, it’s not. Racy acidity enlivens the palate. This versatile wine is equally at home as a before-dinner drink, to offset the heat of spicy Asian cuisine, or to complement roast pork. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2007
($33): They’ve hit the mark with this full-sized Syrah–in only their second vintage. Lush but not over ripe, it manages to capture both the meaty and black fruit sides of Syrah. This full-bodied wine has hints of licorice and other dark flavors that suggest that it be matched with a hearty winter stew.… Read more
E. Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone Valley, France) 2005
($50, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): 
Guigal is the Rhone’s most talented producer. His array of wines—from inexpensive Cotes du Rhone to single vineyard Cote Rôtie priced in the triple digits—is unmatched. Take this Châteauneuf-du-Pape for example. He owns no land there and has no vineyards.… Read more
Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Riesling 2007
($15, Vineyard Brands): If New Zealand continues to turn out Riesling like this one, it will become known for that varietal in addition to its Sauvignon Blanc. It delivers a marvelous combination of earthy minerality, lively fruity notes, good concentration and bracing acidity. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) ‘Zind’ 2006
($19, The Sorting Table): Zind-Humbrecht is straying from French tradition by making wine from Chardonnay in Alsace. A blend of one-third Auxerrois and two-thirds Chardonnay from the famed Clos Windsbuhl vineyard, this appealing wine carries no appellation—it’s labeled solely as a “vin de table”—because Chardonnay is not an allowed variety in Alsace. … Read more
Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name. Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006
($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label. The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004
($80, Hess Imports): When I first tasted this wine–their current release–I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.” Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement–two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz. … Read more
Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Grand Blanc” Brut 2002
($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): 
Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm. They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country. Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. … Read more
Please, No More Killer Cabernets
My hope for the New Year is that winemakers turn down the “volume” so we wine drinkers can savor the music.
It is clear that current popular taste embraces the ultra-intense style of wine–both white and red. Alcohol levels in these wines often soar to 15+ percent–and acid levels drop–as winemakers leave grapes on the vine to achieve ever more ripeness. … Read more
Fetzer Vineyards, California (United States) Chardonnay “Valley Oaks” 2008
($9): Fetzer, which made its name with well-priced wines, continues to do so with this bargain priced Chardonnay. Not an overdone style, it manages a delicate balance–especially hard to accomplish at this price range–between oak nuances and subtle tropical fruit flavors. … Read more
Cono Sur, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carmenère 2008
($11, Vineyard Brands): Carmenère, a variety formerly popular in Bordeaux, has found a new home in Chile, where it flourishes. This mid-weight wine has an appealing spice and earthiness that acts as a good counterpoint to its ripe fruit profile. It’s easy to enjoy with pizza.… Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2009
($15, Vineyard Brands): The 2009 vintage was particularly successful for New Zealand, according to David Strada, the US representative of New Zealand Wine, because there was no rain during harvest. This wine supports his assessment. Always a reliable Sauvignon Blanc, Villa Maria’s Private Bin in 2009 has an extra sense of ripeness which gives it a pleasing texture and fuller mouth feel without losing any of the signature zippy citric pungency. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2007
($22, Vineyard Brands): The French authorities elevated Vinsobres to its own appellation–on the same level as Châteauneuf du Pape–in 2005. They don’t have the grandeur–nor the price–of Châteauneuf, but like their Rhône neighbors to the south, they can be enjoyed when young. … Read more
Christian Moueix, Bordeaux (France) Merlot “Encore” 2005
($15, Kobrand): If the Moueix family, who owns or controls many properties in Pomerol–including Chateau Pétrus–where Merlot is king, can’t produce an exhilarating Merlot, then no one can. The name, Encore, is apt because after one taste you want more of this serious Merlot. … Read more
Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008
($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect. This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005
($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is among the top–if not the top–producer of Chinon. And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings. This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon.… Read more
Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers. In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2008
($22, International Cellars): This, Nobilo’s top-of-the-line Pinot Noir, emphasizes clean ripe, sweet cherry-like fruit flavors. Earthy nuances peek out with air. Supple suave tannins allow immediate enjoyment. And thankfully, the under-14% stated alcohol allows the varietal character–Pinot Noir as opposed to “Pinot Syrah”–to shine.… Read more
Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($25, Vineyard Brands): Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc. Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation. Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality–even a smoky flinty element–and depth.… Read more
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($32, Vineyard Brands): Central Otago is considered by some the best area in New Zealand for Pinot Noir–although producers in Marlborough or Martinborough would disagree. Peregrine has fashioned a plush ripe–almost sweet–fruit filled wine with mild, silky tannins. Earthy notes add balance and complexity. … Read more
Burgundy on the Rise
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more