As Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, pointed out, luck played a role in Ornellaia’s success. It was lucky that Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia’s founder, went to California in search of vineyards because it was there that he met André Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker. … Read more
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Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Barriques” 2008
($20, Kermit Lynch): The word “barriques” (small, 225-liter French oak barrels) on a label of Pinot Blanc, a fairly delicate grape, is bound to dissuade many from tasting this wine. It certainly put me off and I had every intention of not liking the wine. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2008
($14, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Although the vast amount of wine produced in the Rhone Valley is red, consumers should explore the small amount of white wines that originates there because they offer richness and body. The only potential downside of Rhône whites, which Guigal avoids, is that they can come across as heavy if they have insufficient acidity. … Read more
Gai’a, Santorini (Greece) “Thalassitis” 2008
($26, Athenee Importers): 
In the brief 15 years since its founding in 1994, Gai’a has become one of Greece’s top producers. Their Thalassitis, made entirely from the Assyrtiko grape, is clean and bracing with a lava-infused minerality. It has a lovely firmness and incredible persistence and intensity without being heavy. … Read more
Gai’a, Greece (Greece) “14-18 H” Rosé 2009
($14, Athenee Importers): Although made entirely from Agiorgitiko, one of Greece’s prestige grapes, grown in Nemea, one of Greece’s prime wine producing areas, this carries no appellation because regulations only recognize red wines from Nemea, not rosé. After tasting this wine, it’s pretty clear that those regulations need to change. … Read more
Capçanes, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) “Vall del Calàs” 2006
($20, Eric Solomon Selections): Capçanes ranks with the best wine cooperatives in the world. Working with growers whose vineyards have been in the same family for generations gives them access to old vines. This blend of Merlot (50%), Garnacha (35%) and Tempranillo combines lively fruity with earthy–leafy–flavors.… Read more
Groom, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008
($27, Winebow): As a former winemaker for Penfolds in charge of Grange, their iconic Shiraz, Daryl Groom should know something about that varietal. And judging by this wine, he certainly does. Ripe and powerful–it is, after all, Barossa Shiraz–it’s not over the top, carrying the stated 14.9% alcohol very well. … Read more
Frederic Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “Les Rouilleres” 2007
($18, Jon David Headrick Selections): Despite focusing the on the same grape, Cabernet Franc, the wines from the appellation of St. Nicolas de Bourgueil are typically lighter than those from the neighboring appellation of Bourgueil because of the soil, which contains more sand rather than clay and limestone. … Read more
Val de Sil, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Sobre Lias” 2008
($17, Eric Solomon Selections): 
Val de Sil is one of the best producers in Valdeorras, a small (3,300-acre) and up and coming appellation in Spain’s northwest. The primary white grape here, the Godello, has enormous inherent acidity and hence the wines are fresh and lively with a penetrating citrus quality. … Read more
Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($60, Moët Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, some how fails to garner the attention it deserves. That’s a shame because their Champagne is flat out classy. Made entirely from Chardonnay (the definition of blanc de blancs), this one conveys an elegance and luxurious creaminess usually found only in the so-called “prestige” bottlings. … Read more
Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Assertiko 2008
($25, Athenee Importers): Santorini, a crescent-shaped Mediterranean island and arguably Greece’s most famous wine producing area, could be the most inhospitable place in the world to grow grapes. The soil contains virtually no nitrogen. There is hardly a drop of rain–and irrigation is prohibited.… Read more
Domaine Harlaftis, Nemea (Greece) 2008
($12, Athenee Importers): Agiorgitiko, Greece’s second most widely planted grape, is the only one allowed in Nemea, an appellation on the Peloponnese, west of Athens. Although the grape often is transformed into bold, age-worthy red wines with considerable complexity, this one is a bit lighter, delivering red cherry-like flavors and an appealing rusticity. … Read more
Ornellaia: An Italian Icon
“It was luck,” according to Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, that accounted for the extraordinarily rapid ascent of Ornellaia in the eyes of the world. “It was lucky that Mario Incisa della Rocchetta [owner of Sassicaia] planted Bordeaux varieties when [in the 1940s] and where he did [Bolgheri]. … Read more
Château de Paraza, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) “Cuvée Spéciale” 2007
($12, Russell Herman World Wines Source): This typical Mediterranean blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre–delivers a pleasant combination of spice and black cherry fruit-like flavors. There’s unusual suaveness in this mid-weight wine. Mild tannins and a lively juiciness makes it an excellent choice for immediate consumption. … Read more
Aimery Sieur d’Arques, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Toques Clouchers” 2006
($20, Merlin Wine): This unconventional blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac translates into a lovely combination of green apple-like flavors with a subtle creaminess. It’s a classy bright sparkling wine from a leading cooperative in the region with surprising elegance for the price.… Read more
Domaine Porto Carras, Côtes de Meliton (Central Macedonia, Greece) Assyrtiko 2009
($16, Athenee Importers): This domaine is the sole winery in the Côte de Meliton appellation in northern Greece and one of the country’s largest vineyard owners. Porto Carras has fashioned a very engaging version of Assyrtiko–slightly softer and more aromatic–than is made on the island of Santorini, the grape’s traditional home. … Read more
Thimiopoulos Vineyards, Naoussa (Central Macedonia, Greece) “Uranos” 2007
($26, Athenee Importers): Made from the Xinomavro grape, the only one allowed in the Naoussa appellation, this is a big, nicely structured wine with an appealing hard–but not aggressive–edge and an equally appealing tarry signature. It’s best as a foil for a rich roast or grilled leg of lamb, not as a before dinner drink.… Read more
Domaine FL, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Roche aux Moines 2007
($53, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): Domaine FL is a domaine established within the last decade with the acquisition of most of the vineyards of the well-established grower and producer, Jo Pithon, by Philippe Fournier, head of the French telecommunication company, Afone. … Read more
Domaine de Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($13, Skurnik): As a seafood lover, I personally am pleased to see that the prices of Muscadet have risen far slower than their quality. Sure, there are plenty of insipid, hollow Muscadets on the market, but when you find a stellar one like this one from Domaine de Herbauges, you can’t help but wonder why they’re not more expensive. … Read more
Domaine FL, Anjou Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2007
($18, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): This Anjou Blanc shows another expression of the Chenin Blanc grape that is completely different from the domaine’s excellent and distinctive Savennières Roche aux Moines (also reviewed this week). Le Chenin has the more typical profile of a wine made entirely from Chenin Blanc. … Read more
Le Domaine Saget, Pouilly-Fume (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($33, Pasternak Wine Imports): With an engaging counterpoint of creaminess to the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, this Pouilly-Fumé is beautifully refined and balanced. The classy creaminess does not come from oak because the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats. … Read more
Groom, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($17, Winebow): 
Daryl Groom knows a thing or two about winemaking, having made wine in California for two decades. He’s probably best known for being the winemaker at Penfolds in Australia responsible for their iconic Grange in the mid 1980s. But he also was Penfolds’ chief white winemaker, which probably explains why this Sauvignon Blanc is so good. … Read more
Mas Delles Eaux, Languedoc (France) Les Coteaux 2005
($20, Vintex): This seamless blend of Syrah (70%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre delivers an exciting combination of spice and plummy black fruit. It’s a powerful yet not overdone wine. Supple tannins and a fleshy texture make it easy to enjoy now, especially with the start of the grilling season.… Read more
Castelmaure, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) Clos des Vents 2007
($10, Kysela Peres et Fils): 
Castelmaure, a cooperative, is one of the leading producers in Corbières. A typical blend for the region, Carignan (50%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah, this mid-weight red delivers floral notes and spice at an extremely attractive price. … Read more
Domaine Saint Pierre, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) ‘Cuvee Celine’ 2007
($15, Margaux & Co.): Regulations for Corbières mandate that Carignan comprises no more than 50% of the blend to encourage the use of so-called improving varieties. The Cuvée Céline S, a blend of less than one-third Carignan—Syrah (40%) and Grenache account for the remainder—delivers a lovely balance of bright red and black fruit flavors and alluring spicy nuances. … Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” Reserva 2000
($33, Skurnik): Rioja, Spain’s most well-known wine region, is one the rare places 
where the producer ages the wine for the consumer and releases it when it is ready to drink. This decade-old wine is their current release. From one of the region’s traditional–and best–producers, this aged Rioja delivers a panoply of dried fruit flavors, leafy nuances and hints of leather and other non-fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaines Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Château Paul Mas, Clos des Mures 2007
($18, Grape Expectations): The Languedoc, a vast area in France’s southwest, remains confusing to consumers because of the plethora of appellations within the area. It’s worth slogging through the place names because a bevy of well-priced wines, such as this one, originate there. … Read more
Spring Whites
With bright sunshine and temperatures flirting with 80 degrees here in the Northeast, it’s time to put parkas and boots away. Grilled fish dribbled with olive oil and other lighter fare replaces hearty long-simmered stews. To accompany this change of culinary seasons, lively whites will appear in place of those robust reds. … Read more
Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cazetiers 2007
($108, Vintus): Le Moine, a small négociant–his total production is only 2,500 cases–started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2005
($75): This is one of America’s best bottlings of Pinot Noir. Thankfully, it’s 
not an overdone powerhouse even thought the Laurène bottling is a selection of their best barrels. (Laurène is the name of the eldest daughter of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of the Oregon property). … Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2006
($14, Vineyard Brands): This mid-weight delivers an engaging and balanced combination of bright red fruit-like flavors and winsome vanilla notes. Suave tannins lend structure but allow for immediate enjoyment. It’s light enough to accompany a roast chicken, but has enough stuffing to serve with a steak.… Read more
Reviews: UNITED STATES – California
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir “Paragon” 2011 ($20): Confusingly, though the name of the wine is “Paragon,” it does not come from the famed and vast — 875 acre — Central Coast Paragon Vineyard planted by Jack and Catharine Niven in the early 1970s. … Read more
Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007
($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies. Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced. But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light. No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor–savory leafy notes–without weight. … Read more
Château Rayas, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “La Pialade Rouge” 2006
($34, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): Château Rayas is on everybody’s short list of the top producers in the southern Rhône. They are best known for their exquisite Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but you can get a glimmer of their grandeur with this Côtes du Rhône. … Read more
Down Under, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
($3, Down Under Cellars): Yes, three dollars. Let me repeat: three dollars! There is nothing remotely complex about this wine, but it does display pure red berry flavor in a medium-bodied package. No oak, no subtle secondary notes, no layered nuances. … Read more
Gramona, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “Gessami” 2009
($17, Eric Solomon Selections): This aromatic blend of Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer–it’s like a flower shop in a glass–is deceptive. The nose makes you think it’s going to be sweet, but it’s not. It is exuberant and refreshing. If you could bottle springtime, this would be it. … Read more
Celler Espelt, Empordá-Costa Brava (Catalonia, Spain) Garnatxa 2008
($11, Eric Solomon Selections): This 100% Garnacha (Grenache) delivers a delightful array of spice and fresh strawberry-like flavors. It’s an everyday kind of wine–at a very attractive price–that manages to provide a balanced, almost sweet savory, mixture of flavors. Mild tannins mean it takes a chill nicely, so remember it for the summertime.… Read more
Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Louro do Bolo” 2008
($19, Eric Solomon Selections): The grapes–100% Godello–come from younger vines in a separate and distinct part of the vineyard from which Palacios produces his iconic As Sortes. Much more aromatic than his As Sortes (reviewed previously), Louro do Bolo has an engaging floral quality atop a hint of minerality and shows the range of wine made from the Godello grape. … Read more
Pena das Donas, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Almalarga” 2009
($21): Consumers unfamiliar with the Godello grape are in for a treat. Naturally high in acidity, its palate cleansing ability makes it an obvious choice for highly flavored dishes. Pena das Donas’s rendition, from the small, relatively new DO of Ribera Sacra, undergoes lees-aging in tank, which adds complexity while still preserving the inherent fruitiness of the grape. … Read more
Altovinum, Calatayud (Ebro Valley, Spain) “Evodia” Rosé 2009
($9, Eric Solomon Selections): Regular WRO readers know that I fail to embrace the Rosé craze, almost always preferring a chilled light red wine (see this week’s review of Celler Espelt’s Garnatxa). Well, here’s an exception. This Rosé, made entirely from Garnacha, has real character and alluring nuances of wild strawberry-like flavors. … Read more
Acacia, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2007
($24): Acacia specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, producing several single vineyard bottlings of each. This one–not one of their single vineyards offerings, but rather a blend from several sites–should not be overlooked. Most Pinot Noir selling at this price can’t compare with this one for complexity and enjoyment. … Read more
Feraud-Brunel, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($15, Martine’s Wines): You’d be hard pressed to find a more promising partnership in the 
southern Rhone. This négociant firm, founded in 1998, is a partnership of two of the very best producers in Châteauneuf du Pape, Laurence Feraud, whose family owns Château Pegau, and André Brunel, owner of Les Cailloux. … Read more
La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Les Brugueres” 2009
($30, Eric Solomon Selections): Priorat is known for its great red wines. But distinctive whites can be made there, just as in other great red wine areas, such as the Côtes de Nuits and Pessac-Léognan. Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, it leads with a gorgeous floral–almost peachy–nose followed by an engaging earthiness and bracing minerality, all amplified by vibrant acidity. … Read more
Espelt, Empordá-Costa Brava (Catalonia, Spain) “Vailet” 2008
($11, Eric Solomon Selections): Looking for great value in a brisk, lively summertime wine? You’ve found it with this blend of Garnacha Blanca (65%) and Macabeo from one of Spain’s less well-known DOs, Empordá-Costa Brava, located in the country’s northeastern corner near the French border. … Read more
Sitios de Bodega, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Con Class” 2009
($12, Eric Solomon Selections): Although Sauvignon Blanc comprises only 15% of the blend–the remainder is Verdejo (60%) and Viura–it is the primary note in the nose. Fortunately, the Verdejo and Viura take over on the palate to produce a clean fresh zesty white wine with surprising complexity and body for the price. … Read more
Losada Viños de Finca, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Losada” 2007
($20, Eric Solomon Selections): Bierzo is an up and coming DO in the northwestern part of Spain where the Mencia grape reigns. Made entirely from Mencia, this wine delivers a marvelous combination of earth, herbs and fruit, supported nicely by moderate tannins.… Read more
Gruet, New Mexico (United States) Blanc de Noirs Brut NV
($14): Wine from where, New Mexico? And high class bubbly to boot. 
Although wine aficionados know that Gruet has a track record for making excellent sparkling wine, most people are truly amazed when I suggest a sparkling wine from New Mexico. … Read more
Pazo de Señoráns, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008
($23, Eric Solomon Selections): This family-run winery makes consistently impressive Albariño. Their 2009 is no exception. They achieve a hint of roundness to this otherwise edgy wine by aging it on the lees for four months. It’s a classy wine with considerable body without sacrificing the quintessential zippy character of Albariño.… Read more