Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo della Pieve” 2018

($28):  Campo della Pieve is one of Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara’s top cuvées of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  It is distinguished from their easy-to-recommend regular bottling, labeled Selvabianca, by extended lees aging, which occurs for about 18 months in concrete tanks.  The lees-aging, even in the absence of barrel-aging, adds a captivating nutty complexity that balances and enhances its subtle fruitiness.  The interplay of savory and fruity notes is impressive and gives the wine a real presence.  An alluring bitter almond nuance comes through in the finish.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2021