Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Doria 2015

($110, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Nardi’s Poggio Doria vineyard lies in the cooler northwest sector of Montalcino and consistently produces elegant, tightly wound wines.  More closed and less powerful than the Manachiara, the Poggio Doria reflects its cooler environment.  Volcanic soil here amplifies the wine’s dark mineral component.  The wine displays a lovely, and unusual for the vintage, austerity and a subtle and captivating bitterness in the finish.  Finely chiseled, this is one of the stars of the vintage and, like their Manachiara, needs additionally cellaring.  The Poggio Doria is a wonderful contrast to the Manachiara and shows the dramatic difference among the sub-zones of Montalcino.  If your budget allows, buy some of each, taste — and drink — them side-by-side to marvel at the diversity of this DOCG.
96 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2020