Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016

($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini.  There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine.  (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a. Black Label, though it’s hard to categorize the Grey Label as a so-called “entry-level” wine.)  This is a broad-shouldered Vermentino conveying a touch of spice and creaminess to accompany its saline-tinged backbone.  It has enough power to accompany a tomato-based fish stew, but still maintains grace and elegance.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2017