EnRoute, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Brumaire” 2013

($65): Larry McGuire and his partners created EnRoute, a sister winery of Far Niente, Dolce and Nickel & Nickel, to focus on Pinot Noir.  They have now expanded their range to Chardonnay with this one, their second vintage of Brumaire, a stunning example of what I hope is the new style of California Chardonnay.  Both steely and luxurious simultaneously, it has a wonderful balance and tension.  While its flavor profile blossoms and expands while it sits in the glass, its balance and precision remains steadfast.  It seduces you gradually instead of hitting you over the head.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015