Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling ‘Cuvee Frederic Emile’ 2002

($60, Diageo Chateau & Estates):  Trimbach, like other leading Alsace producers, Hugel and Beyer, eschews the Alsace Grand Cru classification system of vineyards, insisting that when the boundaries were drawn they included inferior sites.  Hence, even though the grapes for this wine come exclusively from the core of the Grand Cru sites of Geisberg and Osterberg, on the steep slope directly behind their winery, Grand Cru does not appear on the label.  Instead they name the wine Cuvée Frédéric Emile, honoring one of the Trimbachs from the 19th century who greatly expanded the business.  A marvelous expression of Alsace Riesling, the 2002 Cuvée Frédéric Emile is not to be missed.  Wonderfully ripe, yet dry and mineraly, it has extraordinary vivacity and length.  The wine retains its focus and steely character even as the flavors expand and explode on the palate. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010