($25, Vineyard Brands): Forget everything you might have heard about a mediocre 2002 vintage in Rioja.  This is a wonderful wine that proves vintage charts need be taken with a grain of salt.  Better to focus on the producer.  In this case, Marqués de Cáceres, one of Rioja’s best.  Using a traditional blend–Tempranillo (85%) with Garnacha and Graciano making up the remainder—the winemaking team has married the old and the new in Rioja and come up with a jewel of a wine.  It has plenty of grip and structure to balance the plump fruit flavors.  Suave tannins support the lovely balance of ripe fruit and mature savory, almost meaty, elements.  And it has a very attractive price for a mature wine.  It’s a smart choice with a roast if someone “important” is coming to dinner. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009