($10, Palm Bay International): This regional wine–the Portuguese equivalent of a French Vin de Pays or Italian IGT–hails from the southwest part of the country across the Tagus River from Lisbon on the Setúbal peninsula.  Made mostly (80%) from an indigenous grape, Castelão, it provides great value with each vintage, and the 2006 is no exception.   A bit rough and tumble, it has an attractive rusticity, but without astringency or harsh tannins.  Spicy and briary notes make it a good choice for hamburgers, grilled sausages or a pepperoni pizza.  A great buy. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009