Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2005

($55): Goldeneye is Duckhorn’s estate in Anderson Valley.  It focuses on Pinot Noir from single vineyards, as well as this one, which is made from grapes from a variety of sources.  A ripe and concentrated style of Pinot Noir, this one stops short of landing in what I refer to as ‘Pinot Syrah’ category.  At this stage, the abundance of new oak barrels used for aging the wine is all too readily apparent and detracts from the fruit, spice and earth brought to the table by the grapes.  Given Goldeneye’s track record, it will likely settle out and come into balance, so I would put it in the cellar for a few years, rather than on the table tonight. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008