Truchard, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004

($28): Truchard had fallen off my screen, but this Merlot–along with their Zinfandel and Chardonnay–reminded me that they make stylish wines.  Truchard avoids the solo note of bright ripe fruit flavors by incorporating alluring herbal, leafy and earthy elements into this serious Merlot.  It has the suaveness consumers seek in Merlot, but with more complexity than many deliver.  It’s ripe and balanced so the 14+ percent alcohol doesn’t seem out of place. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2008