MacRostie, Carneros (California) Syrah Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2004

($34): The Syrah grape can deliver peppery or plummy flavors depending on where it’s planted.  MacRostie manages to get both, perhaps because the grapes came from two different blocks within its Wildcat Mountain Vineyard.  The result is a lovely plummy, slightly peppery Syrah with nuances of smoke and bacon fat.  It’s very appealing because it’s not just fruit flavors.  Although I’m not a fan of high alcohol wines, this one carries its 14.3 percent alcohol beautifully because all the elements are in balance.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008