Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” Read more

Maison Louis Latour Made Outstanding 2020s

The 2020 vintage in Burgundy, currently on the market, is the third hot—temperature wise—vintage in a row.  It’s also a “hot” vintage judging from some critics’ reviews and retailers’ enthusiasm.  Hot vintages are tricky, especially in Burgundy.  The good news about growing seasons with hot, sun-drenched days is that the wines have ripe flavors and lack green, unripe ones and the accompanying palate-searing acidity.  … Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon 2020

($17, Louis Latour, USA):  Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay.  Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay.  Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2019

($37, Louis Latour, USA):  Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve.  French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status.  Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. Read more

Aligoté: Burgundy’s Other White Grape

White Burgundy is made from Chardonnay, right?  Well, mostly.  There’s another white grape in Bourgogne, Aligoté, that makes zippy, energetic wines perfect for summertime, and ones that are — I might add — are mostly affordable.  Not an afterthought, Bourgogne Aligoté is treated with respect by top end producers, such as Coche-Dury, whose $300+ per bottle rendition is definitely not in the “affordable wine” category. … Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvres” 2020

($18, Louis Latour, USA):  I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage.  It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age.  With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. Read more

Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Le Bas de Chapelot” 2019

($43):  Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are new kids on the Chablis block.  Chablis-lovers would be wise to remember their names.  Their domaine, not even a decade old, is spread over about a dozen acres in Chablis.  Traditionally, producers in Chablis have not focused on its lieux-dits (named sites) that are under the village umbrella compared to say, Meursault, for example. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Corton Grancey” 2019

($190, Louis Latour, USA):  Louis Latour is King of the Hill of Corton because of the quality of the wines that emanate from their extensive holdings there.  Corton Grancey, a blend from five distinct Grand Cru climats of Corton — Bressandes, Perrières, Clos du Roi, Grèves, and Chaumes — is their top red wine from the Côte de Beaune. Read more

Lucien Le Moine, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019

($62, Vintus):  Lucien Le Moine, a tiny “boutique” négociant, bottles only about 100 barrels of premier and grand cru red and white Burgundies annually (about 2,500 12-bottle cases).  They are of uniformly high-quality, in short supply, and expensive.  He also produces a Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc that are more readily available and punch far above their weight class. Read more

Benjamin Leroux, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2019

($125, Becky Wasserman Selection):  In a word, wow!  Airy and mineraly, this Meursault has an underlying richness.  All its glory is amplified by leaving the bottle re-corked in the fridge overnight.  It’s like a cross between Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, which given the location of the vineyard, high on the slope (literally, the area under the forest) bordering Puligny, makes sense. Read more

Benjamin Leroux, Blagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2019

($80, Becky Wasserman Selection):  The hamlet of Blagny sits high on the slope within the limits of Meursault and adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet.  Red wines from this terroir carry the Blagny appellation, while whites are labeled Meursault-Blagny.  The elevation of the site, which keeps the grapes cool, plus the talent of Benjamin Leroux accounts for the wine’s charm and balance. Read more

2019 Burgundies: A Mixed Bag

While consistency is rarely a word used when describing Burgundies, the 2019 Burgundies present the consumer with an even greater-than-usual stylistic variation.  The usual suspects explain the diversity of the wines:  Frost, poor flowering, and heat.  Frost, which affected areas almost capriciously—some vineyards lost 40 percent of their grapes, while adjacent ones were spared—reduced the crop in many appellations. … Read more

Dominique Piron, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2019

($20, Baron Francois):  Yes, some Beaujolais is white.  And it’s worth looking for because it frequently delivers great value.  As white Burgundies, even from the Mâconnais, rise in price, consumers need to search elsewhere for value for French Chardonnay-based wines.  Made exclusively from Chardonnay, white Beaujolais accounts for only about five percent of the region’s production. Read more

Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028
Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036
Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033
Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
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