($15, Royal Wine Company): Every year we see more high-quality wines, such as this one, coming out of Israel, a place that seems ill suited for premium wine because of its climate. But, in fact, the Galilee plateau’s elevation accounts for its more moderate climate and explains why it’s a prime location for growing quality grapes. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007
($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice. … Read more
Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label — at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge. Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability. … Read more
Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Cape Maidens” 2008
($10, Confluence Wine Importers): 
This is the showiest of Juno’s ‘Cape Maidens’ line of wines, which feature label art by well known South African artist Tertia du Toit. In the case of this wine, her rendering of a voluptuous maiden is matched by a pretty voluptuous wine, as this shows fleshy, ripe berry fruit. … Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2006
($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals. Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “8 Songs” 2004
($38, The Hess Group): Although this very ripe Shiraz highlights the plummy aspect of the varietal, it conveys a subtle pepperiness in the finish. Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it is balanced, not ‘over the top.’ This big, bold, juicy Shiraz should have widespread appeal.… Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “The Famous Gate” 2006
($68): This wine, Domaine Carneros’s super-duper cuvee, undoubtedly a blend of their best barrels, has the graceful marriage of fruit and earth flavors you’d expect from a top-end Pinot Noir. It shows more complexity and haunting non-fruit nuances, but less of the direct sweet cherry-like flavors than their regular ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($16, Pasternak Wine Imports): Albrecht has fashioned a lovely dry Riesling that finds a mid-ground between the enamel-cleansing character of some and the soupy sweetness of others. Plump apple flavors allow you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif, but the hallmark acidity of Riesling means it will hold up nicely through a meal. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2005
($60): Often times Cabernet-blended wines show more complexity than wines made from any of the single Bordeaux varieties. The flavor profile of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, in particular, seems to be an especially well-suited foil to Cabernet. But in this case, Rodney Strong’s Symmetry–a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Malbec (3%)–takes a back seat to their excellent Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2007
($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s leading producers, is a consistent source of good wine at an excellent price. This Syrah has a dollop of gamey flavors and a touch of bacon fat as counterweight to its overall ripeness. … Read more
Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2006
($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Wines from Les Caillerets, one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most refined 1er cru, often have more finesse than most of the wines from that village, which tend to be a bit earthier. Latour’s fits that mold, delivering elegance more associated with Puligny- than Chassagne-Montrachet. … Read more
Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005
($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region. Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more
Conde de la Salceda, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2000
($43, Kobrand): Originally founded in 1647 in Navarra, Bodegas Julián Chivite expanded into Rioja in 1998 when they purchased the Conde de la Salceda estate. This, their top wine, is aged in small French barriques for 18 months and even at 7years of age, the oak influence is still quite prominent. … Read more
Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002
($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World. But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) Syrah, Mourvedre, Viognier 2007
($10): Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s star producers, acts as a négociant–they buy young wine from others and then blend and age it–for this bargain-priced delight. Aromatic from Viognier, it conveys fresh fruit, a hint of bacon fat and gamey flavors–Syrah and Mourvédre speaking–that give it remarkable complexity for the price.… Read more
Matariki, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) “Quintology” 2004
($30, Pasternak Wine Imports): Hawke’s Bay, a relatively warmer area on New Zealand’s North 
Island, is making a name for itself as a place for high quality red grapes. This hodge-podge blend of Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (12%) and Malbec (10%) actually works. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, a consistently good South African producer, is a reliable source of inexpensive wines. This tightly-wound Sauvignon Blanc has a distinctly grassy nose and more flavor in the mid-palate than most comparably priced wines made from this grape. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005
($50): Although this concentrated style of Cabernet emphasizes ripe primary fruit, it is not overdone or over-extracted. Mellow tannins complement the sweet succulent fruit. At this stage, it lacks complexity, but since it is balanced, additional flavors will likely emerge over time, so there’s rush. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
($10, Vineyard Brands): 
Boekenhoutskloof opts–for obvious reasons–for easier to pronounce names, such as Porcupine Ridge, for its more popularly-priced wines. This Cabernet has ripeness and weight that borders on over-ripeness, but freshness imparted by lively acid in the finish holds the wine together. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Mentor” 2004
($38, Hess Imports): Although best known for Shiraz, the Barossa is an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon as well. The very ripe fruit notes border on pruney, but the overall flavor profile is quite broad, with hints of cedar and smoke. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Eight Songs” 2004
($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann’s Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins. The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements. Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance.… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004
($75, Hess Imports): 
This, Peter Lehmann’s top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best. Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it’s the vibrancy and layers of flavors–black cherry, mint and other herbs–that make it notable. … Read more
Hospices de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Charlotte Dumay” 2005
($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices’ winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2007
($22): Cadaretta, founded only in 2005 (they’re just planting their first vineyards this year) is, judging from this wine, a welcome addition to the Washington wine industry. Taking a cue from the Australians who name the wine and describe the blend by using initials, Cadaretta combines Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon to make this bright and zesty wine. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) “Semi-Dry” Riesling 2006
($18): Dr. Frank succeeds with Riesling that retains a dollop of residual sugar because sufficient acidity keeps it fresh, not cloying. It may lack the engaging minerality and length of Frank’s Dry Riesling, but it is an excellent choice for spicy Asian fare, where a touch of sweetness is welcome to cut the bite of the food. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Pinot Gris 2006
($23): Although the Finger Lakes region of New York is known for stunning Riesling, this Pinot Gris shows the potential for that varietal in the region as well. Bone dry, with nuances of spiced pear and good density, it is clearly a Pinot Gris–not a Pinot Grigio–style of wine and a very good one at that. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Gewurztraminer 2006
($28): The problem for consumers with Gewurztraminer, like Riesling, is the unknown and unpredictable level of sweetness. Dr. Frank’s is a gorgeous example of dry Gewurztraminer that highlights the spice of the varietal. Its prominent perfume suggests sweetness, but instead the wine delivers nuances of lychee nuts and spiced pears and finishes clean and dry. … Read more
Ayala, Champagne (France) “Brut Majeur” NV
($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of 
whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based. What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety–45%–in the blend. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard 2005
($26): With about 30 year-old vines, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek estate vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington State, which explains the depth and complexity of this wine. Long and broad, this is a serious Merlot, with intriguing smoky and gamey qualities. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyards, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2005
($18): A blend of 94% Syrah with the remainder comprised of Grenache, this wine speaks to the plummy, ripe style of Syrah as opposed to the peppery, spicy style that grape can also exhibit. It’s thick and rich without being heavy-weighing in at ‘only’ 13% alcohol–thanks to lively, blackberry-like acidity. … Read more
Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park’s most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area–Western Australia–as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation. It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin. The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet–cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors–harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine. … Read more
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2005
($27, Bluewater Wine Company): A more restrained style of Shiraz than the norm, this one from the Margaret River area marries herbal–even slightly minty–elements with plum-like flavors. It delivers an alluring breadth of flavors over pure power. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2005
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): This wine demonstrates the class and breeding of Margaret River Cabernets. A subtle hint of mint and touches of licorice lend an exotic edge. Plush and juicy, it not just fruit-filled, but has wonderful balance and great complexity.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2005
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): Similar to Howard Park’s Scottsdale Shiraz, this Cabernet focuses on the ripe fruit character of Cabernet–ripe plum and blackberry–as opposed to the its savory side. Its velvety, plush texture makes it very appealing now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2005
($27): Howard Park, one of the top producers in Western Australia, bottles two different Shiraz releases, this one from the Great Southern Region, and one from Margaret River, that show the diversity of wines coming from Western Australia. This rendition emphasizes the plumy, almost jammy, side of Shiraz. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($50): Since its establishment three decades ago, Jordan has always been rightly known for its elegantly proportional Cabernets. The 2004 vintage is no exception. The dark fruit flavors have a curious combination of depth and delicacy. An elusive hint of cigar box-like smokiness adds intrigue, while fine tannins support the entire package.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial 1978
($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging. Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel. But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more
Colomé, Calchaqui Valley (Salta, Argentina) Malbec 2006
($25): This powerhouse Malbec comes from the highest vineyards in the 
world–7,200 to 9,900 feet above sea level in the Salta province of the northern Argentine Andes, according to Donald Hess, owner of California’s Hess Estate and other properties, including this one, around the world. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($22): The Canoe Ridge Estate, located in eastern Washington and planted in 1991, rests on a steep slope overlooking the Columbia Valley. While the vines are not ‘old,’ they have certainly settled in and account for some of the character found in this wine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe 
Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines. Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit. Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Les Cazetiers) 2006
($96, VOS Selections): In addition to his excellent village Gevrey-Chambertin, Dupont-Tisserandot made a stellar group of wines from that village’s premier and grand cru sites in 2006. The signature–elegance and finesse, not raw power–is the same, but this Les Cazetiers has more of everything, reflecting the stature of the vineyard. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($55, VOS Selections): 
Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked–even scorned–by Burgundy drinkers. Don’t overlook this one. It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2006
($18): The Finger Lakes region of New York State produce this country’s best Rieslings and Dr. Frank is one of the region’s leading producers. Truly dry with about only 0.8 percent of residual sugar and bracing acidity, it has flinty minerality and real length and depth of flavor.… Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Rkatsiteli 2006
($20): Rkatsiteli, a grape native to the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia and widely planted in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union, has naturally very high acidity and is often used for sweet wines. Although Dr. Frank’s version has 7.5 grams of residual sugar, it finishes bone dry, with an almost bitter almond note. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006
($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008… Read more