($18): The Finger Lakes region of New York State produce this country’s best Rieslings and Dr. Frank is one of the region’s leading producers. Truly dry with about only 0.8 percent of residual sugar and bracing acidity, it has flinty minerality and real length and depth of flavor.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Rkatsiteli 2006
($20): Rkatsiteli, a grape native to the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia and widely planted in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union, has naturally very high acidity and is often used for sweet wines. Although Dr. Frank’s version has 7.5 grams of residual sugar, it finishes bone dry, with an almost bitter almond note. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006
($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008… Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Vigne Au Saint 2005
($72, VOS Selections): Clos de la Vigne au Saint, one of the many Corton Grand Cru, is well- known as a flagship of Maison Louis Latour’s reds because they are practically the sole owner of the vineyard and consistently make a marvelous wine from it. … Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005
($150, VOS Selections): Although located in Santenay in the Cote de Beaune, Belland owns a small portion–less than an acre–of the grand cru vineyard, Chambertin. His 2005 has the earthy and leathery notes atop red and black fruit flavors that make Chambertin so alluring. … Read more
Roederer, Champagne (France) 2002
($66, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Roederer has achieved great success with its 2002 vintage Brut. Quite toasty and powerful, it nonetheless retains grace and finesse. Beautifully balanced, the biscuity, creamy elements extend into the lengthy finish. Although luscious to drink now, the supporting acidity suggests this Champagne will age and improve.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Capellania Blanco Reserva 2003
($32, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although the vast majority of wines from Rioja are red, there are also white wines, most of which were dismissed by many in the past because of an oxidative character. Marqués de Murrieta’s, made entirely from Viura, is fresh and plush with an engaging, creamy, stone fruit character.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Dalmau Reserva” 2004
($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja. Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004
($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity. The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial” 2000
($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués 
de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes. A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more
Alain Soutiran, Champagne (France) Brut NV
($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village 
known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members. Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($28): 
Truchard had fallen off my screen, but this Merlot–along with their Zinfandel and Chardonnay–reminded me that they make stylish wines. Truchard avoids the solo note of bright ripe fruit flavors by incorporating alluring herbal, leafy and earthy elements into this serious Merlot. … Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($8): One of the many Gallo labels, this straightforward–but good–wine challenges the proposition advanced by Michael Franz, my colleague at WRO, that California fails to produce many good inexpensive wines. At a minimum, it is one wine that can be chalked up as a win for California. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Zinfandel 2005
($25): Carneros has the reputation as an area for producing fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. After tasting this wine, perhaps Zinfandel should be added to the list. But then again, it’s not your typical Zinfandel. It certainly has the slightly jammy, distinctly grapey flavors mixed with spice characteristic of the variety. … Read more
Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006
($26, Wildman): 
It seems that as Sancerre continues to grow in popularity, more of them reflect the varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, than the chalky minerality for which the appellation is rightly known. Thankfully, Jolivet manages to capture the uniqueness of the area with this wine’s mélange of herbaceous pungency underpinned by the classical chalkiness that defines Sancerre. … Read more
(oops), Central Valley (Chile) Carménère – Merlot 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): I didn’t care for the 2005 versions of any of the wines sold under 
the Oops label. And although I still don’t care for the name, the wines are definitely more interesting and worth a recommendation. The Carménère, which is two-thirds of the blend, brings nuances of earthiness to the bright prominent cherry fruit flavors.… Read more
Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Reserve” 2003
($30, Scott Street Portfolio): This is a good example of Cabernet from the Margaret River area of Western Australia, a region known for producing more elegantly styled wines than the remainder of that continent. A touch of mint and other herbal notes acts as an attractive condiment to the juicy fruit flavors, rather than overpowering them.… Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($8): Part of the Gallo empire, the Redwood Creek Cabernet is an excellent value. Ripe–but not sweet–mid weight red fruit flavors dominate and are balanced by a hint of supple tannins. It’s a simple everyday Cabernet at the right price. 84 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($60): Those who complain that California Pinot Noir is simply sweet cherry juice need to try this wonderfully complex wine. Laetitia’s ‘regular’ Pinot Noir is very good and easy to recommend, but if you run across this one, their single vineyard bottling, go for it. … Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): The 2006 vintage of this high-value producer’s wines stands as a real step up from the 2005 offerings. A dollop (15%) of Carmenere adds herbal nuances that balance the ripe Cabernet black fruit flavors. If only they’d change the name.… Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Franc – Carmenere 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): I dislike wines with cutesy names and am reluctant to recommend them. But in this case, the quality of the contents trumps the name. A blend of mostly (84%) Cabernet Franc and the remainder Carmenere, this shows an appealingly leathery, almost smoky character, as opposed to solely pure sweet fruit flavors. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) “Primus” 2005
($18, Huneeus Vintners): Primus is the upper end Bordeaux-blend created by Agustin 
Huneeus, one of Chile’s–and California’s–most savvy and talented winemakers. Although predominantly a blend of Merlot (51%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), it’s the Carmenere (17%), a grape formerly important but now virtually abandoned in Bordeaux and making a renaissance in Chile, that lends an engaging exotic edge to this glossy wine. … Read more
Los Cardos by Doña Paula, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11, Vineyard Brands): Similar to their Los Cardos Syrah, this Cabernet is a good value. It is a ripe, fruit-forward, moderate weight Cabernet that’s nicely balanced–not overdone–with polished tannins and charming black cherry acidity. 86 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more
Los Cardos by Doña Paula, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Syrah 2006
($11, Vineyard Brands): Dona Paula uses the Los Cardos designation for their lowest level of 
wines. They usually represent excellent value and this Syrah is no exception. Nuances of bacon fat add an exotic element and balance the otherwise straightforward, ripe, plum-like flavors in this thick and juicy wine. … Read more
Snoqualmie Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Reserve 2004
($25): Although easy to drink, Snoqualmie’s Reserve Merlot is definitely not 
an aperitif kind of Merlot. Lovely succulent black fruit flavors are intertwined with hints of damp earth. Chocolate nuances appear in the finish. This polished and well-rounded wine has plenty of structure, but no harsh or astringent tannins. … Read more
Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($18, Scott Street Portfolio): The Margaret River area is justifiably known for the elegance of its wines compared to those from other parts of Australia. This Shiraz fits that mold. Mint and nuances of other herbal flavors complement the primary juicy black fruit impression of this mid weight wine. … Read more
Columbia Crest, Washington (United States) Merlot-Cabernet “Two Vines” 2005
($8): 
Confusingly, the Two Vines designation refers–not the blend of grapes–but to the trellising system they use. I actually preferred this to a more expensive bottling that showed the effect of oak more prominently. With this wine, there is only a hint of oak, which means that the primary red fruit flavors are the focus. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Black Chinned” 2005
($18): This lovely blend of mostly (77%) Syrah-the remainder is Grenache (12%), Mourvedre (5%), Carignan (4%) and Petite Syrah (2%)–delivers a harmonious balance of black and red fruit flavors complemented by spicy notes. Mild tannins add needed support, and uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Albert Bichot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005
($16, Arborway Imports): Bichot, an underrated Burgundy négociant, will attract considerable attention with this bargain-priced, succulent Pinot Noir. It has real Burgundy character–earth notes combined with bright fruit–and is perfect for current consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008… Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Zinfandel “Buff-Bellied” 2005
($18): Another in their line of Hummingbird names–Buff-Bellied–this 
Zinfandel gets added complexity from inclusion of small amounts of Petit Syrah, Primitivo and Alicante Bouchet in the blend. Still plenty ripe, with hints of jammy flavors, delightful spice keeps it from being overdone.… Read more
Château St. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16): Less pungent than many Sauvignon Blancs, this distinctive wine has a subtle roundness without losing the refreshing edginess and herbal bite characteristic of the varietal. Its fullness and mouth coating texture gives it a big step up from their regular bottling.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2006
($15): Château Ste. Michelle, one of Washington’s best producers, has fashioned a unique Chardonnay that reflects the cooler climate of the Columbia Valley. Green apple nuances, rather than tropical fruit flavors, blend nicely with a subtle toastiness, making this a more restrained style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($12): This friendly wine has the plush ripe forward fruit character that has made Merlot so popular. But, in addition, it conveys nuances of an earthy leafiness that add more complexity than you’d expect at the price. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008… Read more
De Martino, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet-Malbec 2006
($15, Global Vineyard Importers): This tasty wine (a 55/45% blend) offers dark color and impressive density, but with balanced ripeness that keeps it from seeming chunky or overbearing. The fruit shows very attractive notes of blackberry and black plum, with fine integration of fruit and tannin. … Read more
Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontes 2007
($11, Banfi Imports): Originally a Spanish grape found in Galicia, Torrontes is very popular 
in Argentina. This is a deceptive wine. The wonderfully floral element–almost Muscat-like–tricks you into thinking what follows will be sweet. But it’s not. Dry, bright and brisk, the aromatics continue into the finish continuing the paradox.… Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2007
($17, Icon Estates): 
This wine helps New Zealand shake the image that it only produces one wine, Sauvignon Blanc. Kim Crawford, one of Marlborough top producers, combines an engaging creaminess with a dollop of pear and stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot “Vintner’s Reserve” 2005
($19): Year in and year out, KJ does it. Blending wine from grapes grown in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties, Kendall-Jackson walks the line between a sipping ‘aperitif’ Merlot and one with sufficient structure and stuffing to accompany food. Accessible, upfront, cherry-like fruit makes it easy to drink a glass before dinner, but richness and good weight buttressed by supple tannins and good acidity makes it a fine choice with a meal.… Read more
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Mousse 2006
($66, Henriot): Clos de la Mousse, a premier cru vineyard, lies smack in the middle of Beaune. Bouchard owns all of this 8.5-acre vineyard, a rarity in Burgundy where most of the vineyards are split among multiple owners. Very aromatic, this moderate weight wine has captivating cherry-like flavors and good length. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) “Crimson Topaz” Meritage 2005
($18): Clos LaChance has chosen the hummingbird as their symbol, which explains why many of their wines, such as Crimson Topaz, carry their names. This artful blend of primarily Merlot (63%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), Cabernet Franc (11%)–the remainder is Malbec and Petit Verdot–delivers grace and finesse. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($18): Pinot Blanc can often be hollow and innocuous. Ponzi’s is neither. Concentrated and weighty–at least for Pinot Blanc–it has a lovely texture and nuances of pears. Bright and balanced, it is a terrific aperitif wine that has enough stuffing to stand up to light first courses or simple sautéed white fish.… Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($18): Although Pinot Noir has become Oregon’s signature wine, you’d be mistaken if you overlooked the state’s white wines. Ponzi, still a family-run winery, was among the first to plant Pinot Gris commercially in the Willamette Valley in 1978. The decision to perform the fermentation and aging entirely in stainless steel tanks allows the wine’s spiced pear character to shine. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2005
($35): Ponzi’s non-reserve Chardonnay is sold only at the winery or via the website, so this one is the only one consumers will see in 
restaurants or in retail stores. But when you see it, grab it. Restrained–more in the ‘Burgundian’ rather than ‘California’ style of Chardonnay–Ponzi made a creamy and complex wine with nuances of minerality that should not be missed. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2005
($60): A great example of Pinot Noir, Ponzi’s Reserve delivers incredible intensity and weight without being heavy or overdone. As with their Reserve Chardonnay, Ponzi draws on a small amount of purchased fruit for this stylish wine that is filled with ripe spicy red and black fruit flavors complemented by a touch of earthiness.… Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay/Albarino 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Codorniu, best known for their excellent Cava, also produces a range of still wines. The Spanish Quarter label, their latest entry into the market, is meant to be an ‘easy to drink’ wine either as an aperitif or with food. … Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Olivia Salas, the energetic young winemaker for The Spanish Quarter wines, blends Spain’s signature grape, Tempranillo, with Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) to achieve this soft, ‘easy to drink’ red. Despite the seeming large proportion of Cabernet, it doesn’t dominate or mask the brightness imparted by Tempranillo.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006
($20, Vineyard Brands): Neil Ellis is one of South Africa’s star producers. He makes at least two different Chardonnays, this one from the Stellenbosch region and one from Elgin. This one is the richer and more overt of the two and will appeal to those who like a little more muscle in their Chardonnay. … Read more
Neil Ellis, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2007
($14, Vineyard Brands): A multi-region blend, Ellis’s Sincerely is a lively expression of Sauvignon Blanc. While not quite as electrifying as the ones from Marlborough, New Zealand, it conveys plenty of energy and pure citric character enhanced with nuances of fresh herbs.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006
($27, Vineyard Brands): Elgin is one of the cooler areas in South Africa and consequently this Chardonnay is less ripe, more tightly wound and restrained compared to Ellis’s Stellenbosch bottling. There are more lemon rather than melon notes here. His two Chardonnays tasted side-by-side are an instructive comparison and show that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir.… Read more
Jaboulet, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Paradou” 2005
($22, Wildman): Jaboulet, one of the premier producers in the Rhône, makes noteworthy wines from a multiple of areas within the region. Beaumes-de-Venise, a small village traditionally known more for its sweet wines than for its robust reds, had been lumped with other villages that comprised Côtes du Rhône for its red wines. … Read more
Oak Knoll, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($14): This excellent example of what Oregon has to offer in Pinot Gris 
delivers a subtle nutty creaminess, buttressed by bright acid. A stone fruit-like texture lends added weight without being oily. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008… Read more