Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004

($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity.  The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony.  The balance and interplay of fruit flavors is captivating, with appealing notes of tobacco, leather and cedar.  Lovely to drink now, it’s an excellent buy. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 17, 2008