($24, Louis Dressner Selections): The wines from Julienas, one of the 10 named villages–or crus–of Beaujolais typically have an attractive spice and rusticity which makes them one of my favorites from that region. Michel Tete captures that essential essence–spiced red fruit–in this beautifully balanced wine.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief “Cuvée Prestige” 2006
($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tete makes serious Beaujolais. His wines dispel the notion that Beaujolais is simply grapey swill. He makes this Cuvée Prestige along with a regular bottling from the Domaine du Clos du Fief (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Domaine Coquelet, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2007
($20, Louis Dressner Selections): Damien Coquelet, only 20 years old, comes from a family–Descombes–whose name is synonymous with superb Beaujolais. This Chiroubles could be the poster child for the wines of that village. Very fragrant, with a delicate–almost lacey–minerality, it is not grapey at all. … Read more
Montecillo, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2005
($12, Underdog Wine Merchants): 
This is a great $12 wine. It delivers a discreet combination of fresh and dried cherry-like flavors with mild tannins that prevent it from seeming sweet. It’s the Spanish equivalent of what I call ‘pizza wine,’ which means it must be a ‘tapas wine.’ … Read more
Spice Route Winery, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvèdre 2006
($19, Vineyard Brands): This dense wine shows the attractively rustic side of Mourvèdre and delivers a good combination of Old World structure and New World fruit. The tannins are present, but not intrusive, and lend needed support for the ripe black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Rouge 2006
($28, Louis Latour Inc.): Although the grand and premier cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet produce three times as much white wine as red, its village wines are more often red than white and, like this one, are often very good values. This charming Pinot Noir-based wine delivers pure bright cherry-like flavors intertwined with a hint of leafiness. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard Meritage Red Wine 2005
($50): Clos LaChance uses all five of the traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) grown in their home vineyard for their Meritage red wine. Despite a hefty dollop (almost 20%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec (12%), which helps explain the wine’s deep color and weightiness, it’s a well-balanced wine showing nicely integrated oak, black fruit-like flavors and spice even at this youthful stage. … Read more
Maximo, Vino de La Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2006
($10, Frederick Wildman): Grupo Baron de Ley, the Spanish company that owns the quality Rioja producers El Coto and Baron de Ley, also produces this more ‘modern’ style wine from the center of Spain. Its juicy red fruit flavors jump at you, but the black cherry acidity reminds you that its feet are style rooted in Spain. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2006
($30): It’s hard to imagine finding a more satisfying $30 Chardonnay. With this classy wine, you feel the effect of oak instead of being bombarded with it. There’s a subtle elegance lurking here, as opposed to a hit-you-over- the-head overtness. Ponzi has captured a minerality complemented–but not smothered–by a subtle creaminess. … Read more
The Goat Father, Western Cape (South Africa) 2006
($13, Vineyard Brands): This hodge-podge blend of Italian and French varieties (Barbera, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo and Nebbiolo) produces what I like to call a ‘pizza wine;’ a simple, but lively, everyday kind of beverage. This one delivers fresh red fruit flavors and mild tannins. … Read more
Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz “The Beacon” 2005
($36): Long before Charles Back created his Goats do Roam label, he was making stellar wines at his Fairview property in Paarl, near Capetown. This Shiraz, named for a nearby surveyor’s beacon, is a big, ripe but well-balanced wine whose herbal aromas capture your immediate attention. … Read more
The Goats do Roam Wine Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz – Pinotage “Goats in Villages” 2006
($14, Vineyard Brands): Charles Back’s whimsical labeling should not hide the fact that he puts serious wine in his bottles. This blend of roughly three-quarters Shiraz and one-quarter Pinotage, a grape virtually exclusive to South Africa, works very nicely. Bright spiciness offsets succulent black fruit in his supple wine. … Read more
Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun” 2007
($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes. His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. … Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2005
($16, Vineyard Brands): This blend of primarily (85%) Tempranillo (the remainder is Garnacha and Graciano) is a classically proportioned, mid-weight Rioja that delivers herbal elements intertwined with black cherry-like fruit flavors. Fine tannins complete the picture, and lip-smacking acidity keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
Katherine & Claude Marechal, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Gravel” 2006
($32, Louis Dressner Selections): Bourgogne Rouge–although a ‘simple’ appellation–can be an excellent buy in good vintages from serious producers, such as this one. It also serves an excellent introduction to red Burgundy and its contrast with the same variety from our West Coast, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($35): A blend from 15 different vineyards scattered throughout Carneros, this is a classic expression of Pinot Noir from that region. It’s a balanced mixture of pure–but not sweet–red fruit flavors with hints of spice and earthy, savory notes. Mild, supple tannins allow for immediate enjoyment. … Read more
Robert Stemmler, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Ferguson Block 2005
($44): The Ferguson Block, located on the Sonoma side of Carneros, is part of Stemmler’s estate that was planted in the 1970s. The age of the vines undoubtedly contributes to the lovely complexity of the wine. Like all good Pinot Noir, this wine delivers more than just sweet fruit flavors, although there are plenty of those. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Brown Ranch 2006
($60): Richard Ward, one of the owners of Saintsbury, believes this is their ‘best estate vineyard.’ As good as their multi-vineyard Carneros blend is (also reviewed this week), the Brown Ranch bottling just has more of everything while maintaining impeccable balance. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Acacia, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($28): Acacia has an excellent and well-justified reputation for their Pinot Noir. This one, their ‘entry level’ wine, comes from fruit grown in several vineyards (as opposed to their several single vineyard bottlings) and represents a good introduction to their style, which combines subdued fruitiness with an alluring earthiness. … Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($49): Although it is sourced from a relatively cool region, Carneros, which borders San Pablo Bay and is often blanketed by a cooling fog, this wine’s ripeness suggests a warmer area. This robust Pinot Noir combines pleasing, but slightly heavy, flavors of dried and fresh black cherries. … Read more
Ceja Vineyards, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($40): The Ceja family represents the American dream. The family emigrated from Mexico in the 1960s, worked hard in Napa Valley vineyards, saved money and in the 1980s, bought land in Carneros, where they now produce this mid-weight stylish Pinot Noir. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($55): Goldeneye is Duckhorn’s estate in Anderson Valley. It focuses on Pinot Noir from single vineyards, as well as this one, which is made from grapes from a variety of sources. A ripe and concentrated style of Pinot Noir, this one stops short of landing in what I refer to as ‘Pinot Syrah’ category. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate Selection” 2006
($36): A giant step up from Erath’s ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week), this Estate Selection is serious stuff, a blend of the best wines from six of the estate’s vineyards in the Dundee Hills. This house has a deft hand with oak because it gives this wine a rich texture and added spice without intruding or detracting from the panoply of fruit flavors. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Prince Hill Vineyard 2006
($45): Erath planted his Prince Hill vineyard in 1983, which means the vines now have reasonable age and helps explain the engaging complexity of this wine. As with Erath’s other Pinot Noirs, there is a judicious use of oak aging–less than half of the wine sees new oak barrels–so the grapes and earth, not the oak, speaks. … Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($14): Lest you think Erath is a one-color show (four of their Pinot Noir are viewed this week), try this Pinot Blanc, a varietal that has great potential for producing insipid wine. Fermentation and aging solely in stainless steel tanks, captures delicate floral notes that complement its mid-weight body and zesty finish.… Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Gris 2007
($14): Richer than Erath’s Pinot Blanc, their Pinot Gris has nuances of apricots, peaches and other stone fruits. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh, beautifully balanced, and carries the flavors into an extended finish. It is neither a vapid ‘Pinot Grigio’ nor a heavy and overdone ‘Pinot Gris.’… Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Leland Vineyard 2005
($40): Erath has contracted the entire Pinot Noir crop from this 4-acre vineyard every year since 1987, five years after Bruce and Ginny Weber planted it. The wine has slightly more power than Erath’s Prince Hill Pinot Noir (reviewed this week), but maintains finesse, not coming close to the overdone, over extracted ‘Pinot Syrah’ style. … Read more
Sobon Estate, Amador County (California) Primitivo Reserve 2006
($24): Primitivo, according to many authorities, is the European equivalent of Zinfandel. With briary deep black fruit flavors, Sobon’s version is certainly Zinfandel-like. Big and almost overblown, it has an attractive rusticity. Spicy oak and slight heat in the finish–15.1% stated alcohol speaking-definitely means you’ll want this wine on a cold winter’s night.… Read more
Montevina, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Terra d’Oro” 2005
($18): This juicy Zinfandel carries the stated 14.5% alcohol well without notes of over ripeness or excessive extraction. Briary nuances balance the dense black fruit flavors. Still, it’s a big wine that Zinfandel fans should enjoy. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008… Read more
Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004
($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California. The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine. The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances.… Read more
Domaine les Pallieres, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($37, Kermit Lynch): Gigondas, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Vacqueyras, is one of the cru of the southern Rhone. Although the blend of primarily Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and other Rhône varieties, is similar to Châteauneuf, the wines are often a bit more rustic. … Read more
Luis Alegre, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2004
($23, American Wine Distributors): Similar to Chianti over the last 20 years, Rioja, Spain’s most well known wine region, has taken advantage of its name recognition but also reinvented itself to be able to offer the world a range of styles. … Read more
Château d’Epiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Especiale” 2007
($28, Kermit Lynch): Château d’Epiré is one the leading properties in Savennières, a tiny (300-acre) appellation just west of Angers that produces the world’s best dry Chenin Blanc. This ‘Cuvée Especiale’ is bottled without filtration exclusively for Kermit Lynch. The wine, always reticent when young, is vigorous and bright. … Read more
Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2006
($17, Kermit Lynch): With so many innocuous Pinot Blanc on the market, it is a joy to find one with character and richness. Hints of peaches are immediately apparent and a subtle spiciness and excellent acidity adds interest and verve. It’s another good choice for Thanksgiving, both as a welcoming aperitif and a wine for the table.… Read more
Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Petites Roches” 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): Despite its popularity in France, Chinon is an often-overlooked area by US consumers. True, the Cabernet Franc grape, the mainstay of the reds (since 2001 up to 25% Cabernet Sauvignon can be included) can produce vegetal wine if not ripened properly. … Read more
Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Clos du Chene Vert” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): This wine from one of Chinon’s best plots, a south-facing steeply slope vineyard, is an example of a Chinon to put in the cellar, in contrast to Joguet ‘Les Petites Roches’ cuvée (also reviewed this week). You can already sense the layers of flavors ready to spring out of this tightly wound wine. … Read more
Luis Alegre, Rioja (Spain) “Vendimia Seleccionada” 2002
($48, American Wine Distributors): If you just looked at vintage charts, you’d wonder why Alegre chose 2002, a below average year for Rioja, for their ‘selected vintage’ bottling. But this wine shows you that talented producers make excellent wines in so-so years. … Read more
Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public. A rather fuller style of Albariño–with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality–it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. … Read more
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Lea Felsch” 2006
($23, Kermit Lynch): This cuvée, the only one the producer makes, honors the current owner’s grandmother. She would be pleased. Made from a typical Mediterranean blend–mostly (55%) Grenache, with Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault comprising the remainder–it is a charmingly robust wine. Layers of black fruit flavors, spice, and herbal nuances are supported by moderate tannins. … Read more
Domaine de Gros Noré, Bandol (Provence, France) 2006
($44, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation in the south of France where the Mourvedre grape is king, is known for ripe intense red wines, such as this one. This robust wine, with deep black fruit character and herbal touches, is nicely balanced except for the noticeable heat–that’s the 15% stated alcohol speaking–in the finish.… Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée La Migoua” 2006
($75, Kermit Lynch): This bottling comes from a separate, horseshoe-shaped hillside parcel separate from the Domaine that they acquired recently. Riper, with more punch, it is quite closed at this stage and seemingly lacks the complexity of their Cuvée Classique. It needs considerable time to unfold, as I’m sure it will given Domaine Tempier’s track record. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée Classique” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Tempier, arguably the best property in Bandol, is certainly responsible for introducing that appellation to American consumers. They produce this cuvée from several parcels spread around the appellation. Their Cuvée Classique has everything you’d want in Bandol, including layers of robust flavors tempered by fine tannins. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006
($17, Kermit Lynch): In the local dialect, lascaux means limestone and refers to the local terrain. Unusual for the Languedoc, there is no Carignan in this blend, only Syrah and Grenache, which helps to explain the weight of this fragrant, polished wine. … Read more
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Les Cocalieres” 2006
($39, Kermit Lynch): This, the domaine’s top-of the-line wine, comes from a separate parcel just outside the well-regarded Mont Peyroux area as opposed to a cellar selection of their ‘best’ wines. The higher altitude location of the vineyard means a cooler climate in this normally hot part of the south of France and explains the wine’s elegance and polish. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Pic St.-Loup 2006
($18, Kermit Lynch): This wine is a poster boy for the French concept of terroir since the winemaking and blend is the same–60% Syrah and 40% Grenache–as in their regular Coteaux du Languedoc (also reviewed this week), but the flavors are markedly different. … Read more
North Star, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($41): One whiff tells you this is serious wine. The taste confirms it. This serious Merlot, a blend from14 vineyard sites around the Columbia Valley, is powerful, but not overdone. You barely notice its 14.7% stated alcohol, even in the finish.… Read more
Domaine Maume, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($32): Bourgogne Rouge is a category often overlooked (and rightly so) by consumers. But from good producers, such as Maume, these wines represent a good introduction to Burgundy and its Pinot Noir. Quite forward, this one is full of ripe good black cherry flavors and acidity and balanced by a hint of earthiness. … Read more