Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Selenium Vineyard Vin de Glaciére 2007

($18):  Make no mistake, with 16 percent residual sugar, this is a sweet Riesling, best suited either with cheese or as dessert.  (I am not an advocate of sweet wines with dessert because I think the sweetness of the dessert and the wine fight with one another, but that’s a subject I’ll to leave to Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas’s “Wine With” column).  But a sweet wine should be judged, not by its sweetness, but by it’s acidity.  And by that standard, this wine is a winner.  Lemony acidity keeps it fresh, while the almost-savory quality of apricot skin complements its honey-like richness.  It’s a long and stylish wine.  375 ml. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011