Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012

($28, Wilson Daniels): Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine.  They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais.  Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009

($100, Wilson Daniels): Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais.  But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake.  The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. Read more

Sartori, Rosso Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Regolo” 2010

($20, Cru Artisan Wines): Though made entirely from Corvina Veronese, the most prized grape of Valpolicella, and grown in the mandated area, Regolo can not be labeled Valpolicella because Sartori uses the ripasso method — combining the wine with the lees of the prior year’s Amarone, adding yeast and starting another fermentation — which is prohibited by DOC regulations.Read more

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2012

($57, Wilson Daniels): Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008.  It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc. Read more

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard 2012

($35): Davis Bynum was a visionary in the Russian River Valley when, in 1973, he was the first to bottle a single vineyard Pinot Noir.  Forty years later, the winery is still focused on and making excellent Pinot Noir there.  Though pure clean red fruit flavors is the initial message from the 2012 Jane’s Vineyard bottling, lovely herbal nuances appear over time, creating a harmonious wine. Read more

Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2011

($45, Wilson Daniels): I admit it — I am an unabashed fan of Kumeu River’s Chardonnays, which I think are the best overall coming out of New Zealand.  Surprisingly, they’re in Auckland — the wine region, not the city — one of the country’s smallest wine areas, responsible for a whopping 0.2 percent of the country’s wine production, and most of that is red. Read more

René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010

($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection): Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices.  Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. Read more

McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (Central Valley, California) Chardonnay 2013

($10): This Chardonnay is about as good as it gets for the price. McManis Family Vineyards has been — and continues to be — a leader in well made inexpensive wines.  River Junction, essentially McManis Family’s personal AVA since they are the only commercial winery there, is located west of Modesto at the junction of the San Joaquin and Stanislaus Rivers and is cooler than the rest of the Central Valley. Read more

Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2013

($12, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): A stunning bargain, Villa Maria’s “entry level” Sauvignon Blanc is piercing in an attractive way.  From its aromatics to its delightful tartness and cutting edge, it awakes the palate.  It’s a straightforward wine that may be too angular for some to drink as an aperitif, but its electricity makes it perfect for sushi, Asian fare, or grilled fish dribbled with olive oil. Read more

Domaine FL, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chenin” 2010

($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection): Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc.  (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels.  Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.)  The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness–almost a hint of sweetness — that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. Read more

Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2013

($25, Stoli Group USA): To my mind, Malbec is an overrated grape often producing a heavy monotonous red wine.  Thankfully, Achaval Ferrer’s is neither.   It’s certainly a robust meaty wine, but vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and imparts life.  There’s plenty of plumy black fruit — which does make for engaging pairing with charcoal grilled beef — but it’s a black cherry-like tartness in the finish that brings you back for another glass.Read more

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Karia” 2012

($34): Here’s another example of a renowned Napa Valley winery that has made their reputation on red wines turning out a fine Chardonnay.  In 1996, more than two decades after Warren Winiarski founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, he purchased the Arcadia Vineyard, which had originally been developed by Grgich Hills and was the source for some of their fine Chardonnays. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2011

($60): Wow is the first impression after tasting this wine.  Judging from this Chardonnay, Merry Edwards is as talented with that grape as she is with her exceptional Pinot Noir.  Although she’s made small quantities of Chardonnay from the Olivet Lane vineyard for a few years, the 2011 is only the second year it’s been available outside of the tasting room. Read more