($100, Kobrand): 
Les Folies de la Marquetterie bottle is not meant to replace or compete with Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, which remains their Tête du Cuvée, or super-premium, Champagne. Indeed, the blend of grapes in Les Folies de la Marquetterie leans heavily on Pinot Noir, whereas their Comtes de Champagne is made entirely from Chardonnay. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Henriot, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($59, Henriot, Inc): Henriot is one of the few producers to make a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I, for one, am glad they do because it’s a real treat that doesn’t break the bank, like the super premium bottlings do. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Dominode 2011
($45, Kobrand): 
Jadot’s Savigny-lès-Beaune and their Pernand-Vergelesses lend powerful support to France’s focus on terroir. These two wines, from comparably prestigious premier cru sites less than a few miles apart, were made from the same grape — Pinot Noir — by the same winemaking team. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2011
($39, Kobrand): 
The 2011 vintage for red Burgundies will always be overshadowed on a vintage by the rich 2009 and racy 2010. But the chief advantage of the 2011s is that they are deliciously forward wines. Indeed, they will give more pleasure for drinking now than either the 2009s or 2010s. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Baudes 2011
($100, Kobrand): 
The seductive combination of suaveness and depth is what accounts for the popularity, and hence, price of wines from Chambolle-Musigny. Jadot’s 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes has all the mineraly underpinning and glossy patina you’d expect from a premier cru from this esteemed village. … Read more
Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Reserve 2011
($21, Henriot, Inc): 
Beaujolais gets a bad rap. It’s partially deserved because of all of the slightly sweet and vapid swill labeled Beaujolais on the market. But there are a few producers who are trying desperately — they must sometimes feel it’s like pushing a rock up a hill — to change the image with their wines from the cru, or named villages, such as Fleurie, of the region. … Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Casa Real” 2010
($82, Palm Bay International): 
The grapes — entirely Cabernet Sauvignon — for Casa Real, the flagship wine from Santa Rita, come from their vineyard surrounding their home estate in the Maipo Valley, one of the best regions in Chile for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Martinsancho, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Angel Rodriguez, the owner of Martínsancho, resurrected the Verdejo grape, the traditional cultivar of Rueda in the 1970s. King Juan Carlos of Spain recognized the importance of his work by awarding him the Cross of the Civil Order of Agriculture. … Read more
Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Morgadio’s 2013 is to Rias Baixas what Martínsancho’s 2013 is to Rueda–a classic example of the denominacíon. If you want to know what all the fuss is about Rias Baixas and its indigenous grape, Albariño, just taste this wine. … Read more
Mas d’En Gil, Priorat (Spain) Coma Vella 2008
($45, Classical Wines from Spain): The 2008 vintage in Priorat was cooler than usual, producing slightly less concentration, more vibrant wines. Mas d’En Gil’s style leans toward less massive Priorat than many of the other producers. The combination of their style and the vintage means that this wine, while still packing plenty of punch, is less muscular than the typical Priorat. … Read more
Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha Roble 2012
($16, Classical Wines from Spain): My mantra is producer, producer, producer. But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others. … Read more
Losada, Bierzo (Spain) 2011
($23, Classical Wines from Spain): 
Bierzo may lack the name recognition of Rioja, but its wines can be equally memorable. The Mencía grape, historically known for making dilute wines from over cropped vines, can make stunning wines, such as this one, when the vines are planted on the rocky hillsides in this northwestern region of Spain. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Douro (Portugal) Touriga Nacional 2011
($56, Vintus Wines): 
Touriga Nacional, the most prized grape for Port, is also the most prized grape for Portugal’s dry red wines. Quinta do Noval’s bottling of their dry wine is as exemplary as their Port. This is an elegant and racy wine, a true thoroughbred. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Vinho Regional Duriense (Portugal) “Cedro do Noval” 2009
($19, Vintus Wines): 
Quinta do Noval, one of the world’s greatest Port producers, has been making dry wines from their home in the Douro Valley for about a decade. They make three levels of dry wines. The first level, Cedro do Noval, named after the famous cedar tree that dominate the terrace at the Quinta do Noval, is a blend primarily of the classical Portuguese varieties with a small amount of Syrah. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($200): 
I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them. I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary. Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Malbec 2012
($225): Will Berliner, who has already shown his talent with his sensational Cabernet and Chardonnay, has added an equally impressive Malbec to his line up. Berliner included a small amount of Malbec in his Cabernet Sauvignon previously and clearly liked how it did so he decided to make a small amount of wine (5,000 bottles) exclusively from that variety. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($250): 
Will Berliner, owner/winemaker at Cloudburst says he cares “about clarity and purity.” He found both in his 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary wine. In keeping with the Cloudburst style, Berliner squeezes incredible flavor and nuances out of his grapes without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment” 2011
($18, Vintus): Errazuriz, one of Chile’s leading producers, is based in the northerly Aconcagua Valley, instead of near Santiago, home to most of the other leaders in the industry. Their “Wild Ferment” Chardonnay has always been one of my favorites, especially at the price. … Read more
Edna Valley, Central Coast (California) Chardonnay 2012
($15): It’s refreshing to find a California Chardonnay that’s balanced and delivers so much enjoyment for $15. The winemaking team has walked the line nicely by imparting a touch of seductive creaminess and a subtle patina of oakiness without going overboard. … Read more
McManus Family Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2013
($10): When people complain they cannot find good inexpensive California wine, I point them to McManus Family Vineyards. They have a consistent track record of producing good, well-priced wines, such as this Pinot Grigio. Floral with the barest hint of pears, it has sufficient acidity to match it with a simple fish dish, but not so much that you’d shy away from drinking it by itself as an aperitif. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2010
($195): 
Grgich’s 2010 Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is one of California’s grandest wines. It reminds us why Napa Valley, and in this case, the Yountville region, is so revered for that grape. The winemaking team, led by Mike Grgich’s nephew, Ivo Jeramaz, has hit the bull’s eye with this wine. … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010
($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other). Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa. … Read more
Bolla, IGT Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Creso” 2010
($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it. The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): 
Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): 
Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): 
La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2013
($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great Rhône producers, has expanded into the Languedoc with a terrific trio of wines, a white, a red and a rosé, from the Côtes du Roussillon appellation. This crisp and refreshing white has a surprising lift that balances and enhances the subtle stone fruit character. … Read more
Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment 2011
($20, Vintus): 
Aconcagua Costa is a subregion of Aconcagua, Chile’s most northern most premium wine growing area. Closer to the Pacific Ocean, it is a cooler area, perfect for Chardonnay, a grape than expresses itself best in cooler climate. Errazuriz has taken advantage of the location to making a stunning $20 Chardonnay (if it carried a Napa Valley appellation it would be at least twice as much.) … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Embruix de Vall Llach” 2011
($25, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Vall Llach, one of Priorat’s top producers, designates fruit from younger vines for their Embruix (bewitched in Catalan dialect). A 50/50 blend of the traditional varieties (Cariñena and Garnacha) with international ones (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), it delivers a more modern expression of the appellation.… Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Estate 2011
($34, Wilson Daniels): 
The grapes for this wine come from better-situated vineyards, either theirs or ones they manage. Indeed, they select the best fruit for this Estate bottling with the lesser quality grapes going into their excellent and very well-priced “Village” bottling, which, at $20 a bottle, is one of the best Chardonnays I’ve had at that price. … Read more
Cantina Roccafiore, Todi Grechetto Superiore DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Fiorfiore” 2012
($18, Vignaioli Selection): Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto, is a distinct variety from Grechetto di Umbria, the grape frequently used in Orvieto. So don’t think this is an Orvieto. Not surprisingly, given the name of the winery and the name of the wine, it is beautifully floral. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($38, Wilson Daniels): Technically from Beaujolais, the wines from Moulin-à-Vent stand apart and have more in common with the rest of Burgundy because of the granitic soil of the appellation. This is a broad shouldered robust Moulin-à-Vent, reflective of the warmth and ideal growing conditions of the vintage. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($38, Wilson Daniels): 
Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season. Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip. Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2010
($48): Denser, more herbal and less fruity than their Merlot, this wine is quintessential expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. At this stage the tannins make it a less “friendly” wine — you don’t want a glass of it before dinner — but it’s a fabulous choice for prime rib. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Mt. George Vineyard 2010
($35): This is real Merlot and shows what that grape, when handled properly, can do. Very aromatic, it conveys ripe black cherry-like fruitiness and a pleasant and subtle funkiness that is characteristic of top-notch Merlot. Broad and deep, it carries its ripeness — it weighs in at a 14.9% stated alcohol — effortlessly. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($53): 
Jordan continues to excel by sticking to the founders’ philosophy of making refined, not blockbuster, Cabernet Sauvignon. Their 2010 fits that mold beautifully. The bouquet is explosive, but in the mouth it is restrained and refined, seducing you with polish and persistence, not power. … Read more
Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011
($40, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): Elgin, a region about 60 miles south east of Cape Town, is known for its cool climate because of its proximity to the ocean. Chardonnay does well in cool climate because the lower temperatures at night allow the grapes to hold on to their acidity, which translates into freshness in the wine. … Read more
Cantina de Soave, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Rocca Sveva” 2013
($13): Cantina de Soave, a very good cooperative, makes a wide range of wines. The Rocca Sveva line is one of their upper level ones. This crisp Soave, clean and fresh, has a touch of fruitiness in the finish. Not the watery Soave so common decades ago, it has character. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010
($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. … Read more
Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé. Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here — the old vines speaking, I’m sure.… Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Lassègue” 2005
($150, Sovereign Wine Imports): 
The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Bordeaux, and, indeed, throughout France. The weather was perfect throughout the growing season. The right amount of sun and the right amount of rain at the right time brought the grapes to perfect maturity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2012
($20): The Yarra Valley, just northeast of Melbourne, is a cool region, nicely suited for Pinot Noir, which can lose delicacy if the weather’s too warm. Indeed, this Pinot Noir has a lovely lacey, delicate quality enhanced by uplifting acidity. A subtle savory character comes through the fruitiness, adding complexity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2012
($20, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): This is the kind of wine that made Australian Shiraz famous. It’s a little meaty, a little spicy, a little fruity and most importantly, not over done, alcoholic or over wrought. I’d even say it’s graceful, word rarely used to describe Australian Shiraz, and when it is, it’s describing a wine that’s far more expensive than this one. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2011
($30): 
This marvelous Cabernet, approachable now, combines elegance with power. Not as concentrated as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s rendition from the Cold Creek Vineyard, this release from Horse Heaven Hills displays more refinement at this stage, while still delivering plenty of oomph. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2011
($35): This broad shouldered, concentrated Cabernet combines dense ripe fruitiness with more than a whiff of black olives and herbs. With a hint of bitterness in the finish and fine balance, it would be a fitting choice for a charcoal grilled steak. … Read more
Michael Mondavi Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Animo” 2010
($85): 
The grapes for Animo, (“spirit,” in Italian), come from the family’s vineyard atop Atlas Peak. Michael Mondavi, one of the sons of the late, legendary Robert Mondavi, explains that they chose the name because they felt the wine expressed the spirit of Atlas Peak. … Read more