Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010

($107, Kobrand): Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra.  In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character.  Chiarlo’s 2010 Cerequio is gorgeous, with an initial captivating floral character followed by rich red fruit flavors and an alluring bitterness in the finish.  The firm tannins hover in the background, but lend fine structure.  It has a Burgundian — flavor without weight — sensibility and conveys both elegance and power, without being overt.  The classic description of Barolo, “tar and roses” is appropriate in this case.  Surprisingly approachable now, its balance, structure and complexity suggest at least a decade of cellaring will reward you.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014