Paolo Manzone, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Meriame 2016

($50, Romano Brands):  Paolo Manzone is a top producer of Barolo who happens to fly under most peoples’ radar.  This Barolo, from the Meriame cru in Serralunga, is his top wine.  Though Serralunga is known for tannic, structured wines, Manzone’s Meriame is immediately engaging.  The prominent tannins appear in the finish, yet they don’t overwhelm or intrude.  The wonderful ying/yang of floral notes and tar-like minerality are enchanting.  Long and fresh, there’s lots to like about this wine — power, elegance, emphasis on the savory rather than the fruity side.  Given the price and the difficulty finding wines from the deserved highly rated 2016 vintage, buying this one is a no-brainer.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 17, 2021