($23):  Ferraris acquired priest Don Giacomo Cauda’s Ruchè del Parroco in 2016 and renamed it “Vigna del Parroco.”  It remains the only officially recognized cru in the entire DOCG.  A gorgeous wine that still retains the savory focus, it is also more refined and complex than the Clàsic.  The spice box character is present, but toned down and, as a result, the wine is even more enchanting.  Its subtlety is captivating and makes you pay attention as the flavors change with each sip.  It has a “flavor without weight” sensibility that I find in Burgundy, or, for that matter, aged Barolo.  Though the tannins are fine, they provide plenty of support without astringency.  A zippy finish amplifies its charms.  Ferraris’ Vigna del Parroco, like their Clàsic, is not for those looking for a fruity wine.   Similar to the Clàsic, it’s beautifully balanced and carries the 15% stated alcohol effortlessly.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 27, 2021