I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2015

($30, Romano Brands):   I Saltari, part of the highly-acclaimed Sartori di Verona wine group, releases their Valpolicella Superiore when they think it’s ready to drink.  That explains why the 2015 is the current vintage on the retail market and tastes nothing like most Valpolicella.  Yes, it’s a juicy mid-weight red with mild tannins, but it displays a layered complexity rarely seen in Valpolicella.  What I call “not just fruit” flavors are evident with a delightful uplifting balsamic nuance.  Bright and lively, it’s a wonderful choice for current drinking with sautéed veal or other mid-weight dishes.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 6, 2021