Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019

($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet.  Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price.  It leads with the lovely floral scent characteristic of Puligny-Montrachet and follows with a haunting minerality.  Long and lacey, its charms are readily apparent now, so treat yourself.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021