($21):  Consumers can be excused if they are confused regarding the name of this grape.  Formerly it was called Tocai Friulano, but the Hungarians objected that this dry white wine might be confused with their legendary sweet wine, Tokay (Tokaji), so they won a regulatory ruling that forced the Italians to change the name.  Hence, since 2008, it’s just called Friulano.  In fact, according to Jancis Robinson, a world-authority on grapes and wine, the grape is a relative of Sauvignon Blanc, known as Sauvignonasse.  You’d be hard-pressed to identify the family resemblance to Sauvignon Blanc in this one because its lovely, waxy, lanolin-like texture is more reminiscent of Semillon.  Attractive floral notes and good concentration without heaviness make it a fine choice for a rich seafood risotto.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2019