Château Lalande-Borie, Saint Julien, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($37):  It’s not often you see Cru Classé Bordeaux that’s ready to drink for under $40.  Although you won’t see Cru Classé on the label, Château Lalande-Borie was formerly a part of Château Lagrange, which was classified as a Cru Classé in 1855, which means that technically, it still is.  Jean-Eugène Borie, the then managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, persuaded the Cendoya family, the then owner of Château Lagrange, to sell him a portion of their vineyard.  Borie upgraded the vineyard, put his magical touch on the winemaking and renamed it Lalande-Borie.  The 2012 is just starting to come into its own.  Earthier and bigger than Château Ducluzeau, it is still a mid-weight wine with a glorious “not just fruit” character.  It shows its Cru Classé stature beautifully.  Juicy and fresh, it’s a pleasure to drink now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2019