($27, Frederick Wildman and Sons):  Domaine Labruyère, a serious producer based in Moulin-à-Vent, has a variety of bottlings from that Beaujolais cru.  This one, a blend of grapes from older vines and aged in older oak barrels, reminds us of just how good and exciting wines from Moulin-à-Vent can be.  Structured without being austere or hard, it delivers a gorgeous array of dark fruit and gaminess.  For those who think Beaujolais is a frivolous wine, open a bottle of this one with whatever meat you’re grilling this summer and smile at its seriousness.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018