($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): If you see Lunae Bosoni’s name on a label, buy the wine.  This producer is consistently top-notch, whether it’s a white wine, like this Vermentino, a rosé — their Mea Rosa is stunning — or a red.  Their Etichetta Grigia, or grey label, distinguishes it from their flagship Vermentino, which is adorned with a black label.  Vermentino can certainly disappoint and you might think if they produce a flagship wine, any other Vermentino should be avoided as vapid swill.  How wrong you’d be.  This is a stunning little brother of a wine showing intensity and a captivating edginess.  A pineapple-like spice adds another dimension. It has requisite concentration and freshness to hold up against a hearty seafood stew.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016