($23): Pacific Rim Winery, based in Washington’s Columbia Valley, specializes in Riesling and other aromatic white varietals.  This one, from a small (2.5-acre) vineyard with 40+ year-old vines, is stunning.  Crisp and clean, it has a delicacy and laciness that belies its depth of flavor.  Consumers who are hesitant to buy Riesling because of a fear of getting a sweet one need not worry.  Cutting, with a lively tartness, it’s an invigorating versatile wine that would be a perfect choice for dishes from sushi to an earthy mushroom risotto.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016