Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011

($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert.  Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin.  Humbert Frères’ 2011 is far closer in quality to the Grand Cru, and truly deserves the name, Petite Chapelle.  A study in purity and precision, it conveys an impeccable balance of fruitiness and an alluring leathery earthiness.  It impresses with its elegance and incredible length, rather than its power, though there’s plenty of that too.  Remarkably expressive and enjoyable now, it’s another example of the “flavor without weight” that to me characterizes Burgundy.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015