Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014

($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price.  But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine.  After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years.  The 2014 delivers alluring bright spice — an almost white pepper quality — and saltiness.  Unencumbered by oak aging, its clean and crisp nature imparts a palate tingling vivacity that carries through to an exceptional finish.  Each sip brings additional nuances, making it a delight to sip throughout a meal.  Savor this Vermentino with simply grilled fish to allow the wine to shine.  It will.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015