($17, The Vine Collective): Carussin, a family run estate founded in 1927, focuses on Barbera.  This one — Asinoi, an illusion to donkeys, which they also raise — is a blend from four of their vineyards.  Despite its fruit-filled profile and its concentration, it’s neither sweet nor jammy.  Zesty acidity, characteristic of Barbera, keeps it fresh and lively, making it just what you need for a meaty pasta dish this winter.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015