Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011

($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle.  His talent is evident in a white wine, rare in this part of Burgundy, made from Chardonnay grown on a vineyard they own exclusively up in the hills behind Vosne-Romanée.  It’s not the usual creamy voluptuous white Burgundy you’d expect from the Côte de Beaune, but rather it’s a firmly structured mineral-filled wine that etches its presence on your palate — in a very appealing way.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013