Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve “Las Mulas” 2008

($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Torres, the iconic Spanish wine family, once again was ahead of the curve when they started their outpost in Chile in 1979.  (Their website claims they were the first foreign wine company to invest there).  This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, from organically grown grapes, conveys gorgeous intensity without heaviness.  Not a hint of being done or over extracted, it has a fascinating combination of roasted elements, a hint of licorice and black fruit notes–and all of that at 10 bucks a bottle.  Polished tannins provide needed structure while allowing for immediate enjoyment.  An extraordinary bargain. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010