($85, Jorge Ordonez):  This, Finca Allende’s top wine and a traditional blend of Tempranillo (85%) and Graciano, comes from a single vineyard—the highest elevation in the town of Briones—that was planted in 1945.   The combination of elevation and old vines explains its extraordinary complexity.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overwrought, but balanced.  Beneath the ripeness is a core of minerality.  It’s more powerful than their regular Rioja without sacrificing elegance.  Fine tannins are barely noticeable because of the richness.  Nonetheless, it’s still tightly wound and needs time—another five years at least—to unfold.  Those who can’t wait should decant it hours before serving. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010