($33, Pasternak Wine Imports): With an engaging counterpoint of creaminess to the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, this Pouilly-Fumé is beautifully refined and balanced.   The classy creaminess does not come from oak because the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats.  So it must be a combination of careful selection of grapes—it’s entirely estate fruit—the use of wild instead of commercial yeast, and lees aging. A haunting minerality announces this is not just Sauvignon Blanc speaking, but rather Sauvignon Blanc planted in the small, 2,500-acre, appellation of Pouilly-Fumé.  Zesty citrus notes allow you to continue to drink it without tiring. 93 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010