Domaine Francois Lamarche, Echezeaux (Burgundy, France) 2005

($110, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Domaine Lamarche is probably best  known for being the sole owner of a small Grand Cru in Vosne-Romanée, La Grand Rue, a vineyard that lies between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti.  But the Domaine makes an extraordinary range of other wines, including the Grand Cru, Echezeaux.  The producer is always the critical element in selecting Burgundy, but especially so for Echezeaux, a large Grand Cru vineyard (almost 100 acres spread over 11 different sites) with many owners, which will always have a Grand Cru price tag, but not always have Grand Cru quality.  There is no question that Lamarche’s 2005 is a true Grand Cru.  Powerful, yet polished, it offers a plethora of flavors–ripe black fruit, earth, a hint of dried leaves–that emerge with time in the glass.  It’s length and waves of flavors (rather than sheer intensity) are the hallmarks of a great wine. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007