($12, Grapes of Spain): Leave it to Aurelio Cabestrero, owner of Grapes of Spain, to find an inexpensive delicious wine from the virtually unknown Denominación de Origen (DO) of Almansa, southwest of Valencia, not far from the Mediterranean. Made by a cooperative, the wine is 2/3 Garnacha, 1/3 Syrah and 100% enjoyable. Surprisingly refined, its ripe fruit and attractive spice will please the palate and the pocketbook. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006