($47, Excelsior): Concha y Toro, certainly one of Chile’s foremost wine producers, has modified the style of Don Melchor, their flagship Cabernet, ever so slightly over the years. The 2003 — just a touch riper and fleshier than past versions — retains the signature attractive earthy, herbal character of great Chilean Cabernet. Its engaging suppleness makes it delicious now, but its fine tannins coupled with sufficient acidity indicate a long and healthy future. 95 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006