Category Archives: Articles

Siepi, a True Super Tuscan

Today, the term Super Tuscan has become almost meaningless because its widespread use encompasses anything from expensive wine made entirely from Sangiovese to low-end blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Sangiovese.

The original Super Tuscan moniker referred to innovative wines, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, or those varieties with Tuscany’s traditional Sangiovese. … Read more

Surprising Portugal

Although my predictions lack the consistency of Nate Silver’s, I will stick my neck out and say that Portuguese wines will be the next “hot” item in the US wine market even though pronunciation issues may be an impediment.  After spending a week in Portugal judging at the 2016 Concurso Vinhos de Portugal (Wines of Portugal Challenge), tasting a vast array of Portuguese wines (including Port, of course, but also a bevy of hearty reds and refreshing whites) and discussing them with Portuguese winemakers and wine judges from around the world, I came away thinking that Portuguese wines are poised to take-off, much as Italian wines did 30-plus years ago.Read more

All Smiles in Burgundy

There were smiles all around Burgundy–at least before the horrific events in Paris on Friday, November 13. And with good reason: The 2014 whites are stunning. And overall, yields in 2014 were closer to normal–70 to 80 percent–after four short harvests, though, as Frédéric Barnier, winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, noted, “We are still looking for a full [normal] crop.” Read more

Rating Wines: Is a 94-Point Wine Better Than an 88-Point Wine?

I hate the 100-point scale for rating wines. Of course, I use it, like the vast majority of wine writers, because it has become the standard scale and because many consumers expect and embrace it.  My dislike is really not with 100-point scale itself, but rather the way many consumers use it, which goes something like this:  Plug in the name of the latest 90+ point wine on wine-searcher.comRead more

A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing

Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.”  I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”Read more

The Trouble with Vouvray

Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness.  (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) Read more

Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Consumers can be excused if they have no familiarity with Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  A well-respected California-based wine writer (who shall remain nameless) recently admitted to me that (s)he didn’t even know that Vernaccia was a grape, let along that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was considered one of Italy’s great white wines. Read more

Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise: A Forgotten Gem

Trends in wine can be hard to understand.  Current fashion, for example, catapults high-scoring “cult” wines, often more suitable for tasting than for drinking, to frenzied popularity and stratospheric prices.  By contrast, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a well priced and versatile wine that is equally at home before dinner as it is at the end of the meal, risks extinction. Read more

Prosecco: The Pinot Grigio of Bubbly?

Prosecco’s popularity around the world has soared–and for good reason.  It’s a delightfully fresh and lively bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, especially in the summertime.  “It’s a party in a bottle,” as Paul Wagner, head of Balzac Communications, a leading California marketing and public relations firm, described it.Read more

Oregon Land Grab

“You can ask whoever you want: attorneys or realtors or winemakers like myself. No one has ever seen this level of activity here before,” says Tony Rynders, proprietor of Tendril Wine Cellars, speaking about the wave of vineyard acquisitions in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 2013.… Read more

Why Wine Prices Are Rising

I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more